CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC 7 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



1. Background 9 



2. Previous Work 9 



II THE STUDY AREA 11 



1. Geography and Geomorphology 11 



2. Littoral Processes 18 



III METHODS 22 



Profile Lines and Monumentation 22 



IV RESULTS 28 



1. Temporal Variability 28 



2. Spatial Variability 46 



V DISCUSSION 53 



1. Profile Changes 53 



2. Civil Engineering Implications 55 



VI SUMMARY 56 



LITERATURE CITED , 57 



APPENDIX 



A PROFILE LINE DOCUMENTATION AND PHOTOS 61 



B BEACH PROFILE DATA 104 



C CHANGE IN MSL SHORELINE POSITION 159 



D CHANGE IN ABOVE MSL UNIT VOLUME 171 



E PROFILE ENVELOPES 183 



TABLES 



1 Relative longshore energy flux by month from visual wave observations . 23 



2 Summary of profile lines and surveys 24 



3 Regression coefficients for changes in MSL intercept and above 



MSL sand volume 31 



4 Change in above MSL sand volume averaged over each reach between 



the dates indicated 33 



5 Change in position of MSL intercept (ra) averaged over each reach 



between the dates indicated 34 



