Figure 3. Refractive trapping of edge waves in shallow water and reflection 

 of leaky waves 



shallow- water edge waves of mode n in the form of a Laguerre polynomial of 

 order n 



d>(*) = e- k > x L n {2kx) 



(3) 



Eckart's longshore (w) current and cross-shore (v) current solutions are 



azk p> t r 



u(x,y,t) = l-R-[L K Cik)e *>*] cos(*v-w/) 



co d(kx) y y 



(4) 



ask t r 



v( W ) = ^^ [1,(2* )e V ] sin(* v-u/) 



CO y y 



(5) 



The cross-shore structure for low-mode (0 to 3) edge waves is shown in Figure 4 

 in terms of a nondimensional offshore distance 



X 



gP 



(6) 



Note the similar structure between these waves, particularly near the shore, with 



Chapter 2 Infragravity Wave Dynamics 



