frequency and for this 8-m depth. For incident wave variance, only swell waves 

 were considered in this analysis , and not sea waves, based on results (e.g., Elgar 

 et al. 1992; and the work herein) from previous work that found significantly 

 higher correlations between swell and infragravity variance than with sea and 

 infragravity variance. Those results are included in the following section. As 

 shown in Figure 1 8, infragravity variances measured in the runup and at 8-m 

 depth are strongly correlated with incident swell variance. Also, the magnitude 

 of the runup variance at the shoreline was approximately 30 times that measured 

 at 8-m depth. 



l\ Ar ^Ay^^^ 



WIND SPEED (m/s) 



-, , , , 1 1 1 . 1 . f — . 1 — i 1 1 1 1 r 



WIND DIRECTION (deg TN) GAGE 933 



iLJ^ftJuT"**^^ 



-1 1 1 1 r—-| . 1 . 1 r— 



WAVE DIRECTION (deg CCW from pier axis) 



-20 

 -40- 

 -60 



"I ■ 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' I ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 1 ' 



LONGSHORE CURRENT MEAN (m/s) GAGE 2342 



TmIm, 



%T 



-, 1 1 1 > 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 



WATER LEVEL FROM NGVD (m) GAGE 511 



, 1 1 1 1 , 1 1 1 1 . | . | i | i | i |— 



1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 



OCTOBER 

 1990 



Figure 17. Conditions during the DELILAH experiment 



36 



Chapter 4 Field Observations 



