Table 2.2 



Ranges of Measured Physical Quantities and Common Dimensionless 



Parameters for Plans 3 and 4 



Parameter 



Range 



Wave height at toe, H, 



2.4 to 18 cm 



Wave period, T 



0.75 to 4.0 sec 



Water depth at toe, h, 



^ to 24 cm 



Wave steepness, S^= H,/Lg 

 Lg = deepwater wave length 



0.007 to 0.1 



Surf similarity parameter, ^ = tan a/{H/Lj'^ 

 tan a = 1/30 = beach slope 



0.1 to 1.4 



Surf similarity parameter, ^ = tan B/{H/L^f 

 tan 9 = 1/2 = stnjcture slope 



1.5 to 21 



Relative depth, h/Lo 



0.009 to 0.28 



1 Relative wave height, H/h, 



0.06 to 0.88 



The LDV was a two-watt argon-ion two-component device assembled by 

 the Dantec Corporation. Here, two-component describes the fact that the LDV 

 measured velocities in two orthogonal directions. For this study, these directions were 

 always vertically upward and horizontal, in the direction of wave propagation. The 

 LDV worked in the back-scatter mode using a non-intrusive probe which contained both 

 the emission and receiving optics. The benefits of this device included nonintrusive 

 measurements, small measurement volume, clean drop-outs, high sampling rate, and no 

 required calibration. Drop-outs were situations where there was no measurable 

 backscattered signal (e.g. when the laser beams crossed at a point above water, after the 

 wave crest had passed and the probe was above the level of the wave trough). During a 

 drop-out, the LDV would produce a constant signal at the last measured value. Because 



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