moment of the incident wave spectrum. The average reflection coefficient is defined as 

 R = [(mj/mj "^ with (mj^ = zero moment of the reflected wave spectrum. The change 

 of wave reflection with damage measurement was neghgible in this experiment. This is 

 consistent with the reflection measurements made by Smith et al. (1992) on a horizontal 

 bottom in deeper water in front of a 1 V:3H slope. The local wave length L„ and the 

 deep water wave length L„„ = gTj/ln were both computed using linear wave theory and 

 the mean period. The Iribarren parameter in Table 4.3 is defined as 

 E.„„ = tan al{HJL„J'' and in Table 4.4 as ^„„ = tan o.l{HJL,J'^ where tan a = 1/20 is 

 the nearshore beach slope and H, = Hj/^ in Table 4.4. 



Table 4.3 



Nearshore Wave Statistics for Incident Spectra and Related 



Parameters with Structure in Place 



Wave 



Toe 

 Depth 



ht 

 cm 



Wave 

 Height 



cm 



Mean 

 Period 



T„, 

 sec 



Peak 

 Period 



sec 



Reflec- 

 tion 

 Coeff. 

 R 



Relative 



Toe 



Depth 



Relative 



Toe 



Depth 



Spectral 

 Iribarren 

 Para- 

 meter 



1 



11.9 



9.78 



1.72 



2.48 



0.59 



0.066 



0.026 



0.34 



2 



11.9 



12.4 



1.70 



2.48 



0.60 



0.067 



0.027 



0.30 



3 



11.9 



14.2 



1.72 



2.48 



0.60 



0.066 



0.026 



029 



4 



15.8 



10.5 



1.72 



2.59 



0.61 



0.076 



0.034 



0.33 



5 



15.8 



13.6 



1.69 



2.59 



0.62 



0.077 



0.035 



0.29 



6 



15.8 



15.8 



1.68 



2.59 



0.61 



0.078 



0.036 



0.26 



68 



