described in the following paragraphs to illustrate the various types of 

 models. A more thorough literature review can be found in Smith and Kraus 

 (1988). 

 Review 



61. Wave height decay can be determined from the dissipation of energy 

 in the surf zone . The energy flux equation is written as 



dF 



ax 



(37) 



in which F is energy flux, x is horizontal distance, and e is the energy 

 dissipation rate defined as 



F = EC 



(38) 



where E is wave energy and C g is group speed of the waves defined as 



PgH 2 



E = 



(39) 



in which p is water density. 



62. Le Mehaute (1963); Divoky, Le Mehaute, and Lin (1970); Battjes and 

 Janssen (1979); Stive (1984); and Svendsen (1984, 1985) assumed the energy 

 dissipation rate of a broken wave was similar to the dissipation rate of a 

 hydraulic jump. The dissipation rate of the hydraulic jump is 



PgH 



4hT 



(40) 



where a is an empirical coefficient and h is the still -water depth. 

 Battjes and Janssen (1979) and Svendsen (1984, 1985) found a equal to unity, 

 indicating the dissipation rate of broken waves and hydraulic jumps is the 

 same. Stive determined a to be a function of beach slope and wave 

 steepness . 



36 



