heights shoreward of breaking. Locations of Gages 2 through 8 were dependent 

 upon bar location and varied from test to test. The distance between Gages 

 2 and 3 was dependent upon wave period and water depth, and this distance also 

 varied from test to test. A photograph of Gages 3 through 6 is shown in 

 Figure 21. Wave data were analyzed using the Time Series Analysis (TSA) 

 program*. The TSA program was developed at the Coastal Engineering Research 

 Center (CERC) to provide several analyses of the wave record at each gage. 

 The program was used in the present study to perform downcrossing analysis to 

 obtain average wave height H , significant wave height H s , maximum wave 

 height ILjax , average wave period T , significant period T s , and average 

 free -surface water elevation r) . The program was also used to make a reflec- 

 tion analysis as described by Goda and Suzuki (1977) and execute a single- 

 channel frequency analysis to obtain peak period T p at each gage. 



Figure 21. Gages 3-6 



93. Two Sony 3/4-in. video cameras mounted on tripods were arranged to 

 focus on the vicinity of wave breaking in the tests: one recorded waves at 

 the break point, and the other recorded the plunge and splash distances. A 



* C. E. Long, 1985, "Time Series Analysis," Unpublished Computer Program, US 

 Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering Research 

 Center, Vicksburg, MS. 



60 



