Relationships given by Weggel (1972), Singamsetti and Wind (1980), Sunamura 

 (1981) , and the present study show the dependence of 7 b not only on beach 

 slope, but also on wave steepness. Figure 5 (a-d) illustrates the variability 

 between equations, even though the extensive Iversen (1952) data set was 

 included in the development of all relationships, with the exception of 

 McCowan. The variability between equations may result from different defini- 

 tions of breaking, experimental variability, and different datums at which 

 depth was measured (MWL or SWL) . All of the relationships were developed in a 

 logical manner; however, Singamsetti and Wind (1980), Sunamura (1981), and the 

 present study include both beach slope and deepwater wave steepness in the 

 developed equations. Therefore, Equations 29, 30, and 58 are recommended. 

 Use of Equations 29 and 58 should be restricted to values of m and H /L 

 suggested by Singamsetti and Wind (1980) and the present study, respectively. 

 Summary of breaker height 



41. Bottom slope and deepwater wave steepness are also used to deter- 

 mine the breaker height index. The basic equation for breaker height can also 

 be expressed in the form of Equation 33. A list of the different coefficients 

 and exponents for breaker height equations are given in Table 2. The equation 

 for fij, determined in the present study can be found at the end of this 

 chapter. Figure 6 (a-d) gives a graphical comparison of the different breaker 



Table 2 

 Summary of Coefficients and Exponents for 





Breake 



r Height 



Index 

















Equation 



Source 



Ci 



ni 



c 2 



n 2 



Number 



Munk (1949) 



0.30 











-0.33 



15 



Weggel (1972) 



F(m) 







G(m) 



-0.33 



19 



Komar and 



0.56 











-0.20 



27 



Gaughan (1973) 













Singamsetti and 



0.575 



0.031 







-0.254 



28 



Wind (1980) 













Sunamura (1982) 



1.0 



0.2 







-0.25 



32 



Present Study 



C(m)* 











n(m) 



61 



* C(m) = empirical coefficient in breaker height equation. 



28 



