spilling if 

 for the offshore parameter, and 



L„m z 



> 4.80 



surging- collapsing if 



< 0.019 



mL„ 



plunging if 0.019 < < 0.427 



mL„ 



(3) 



spilling if 



> 0.427 



mL„ 



for the inshore parameter, in which H b is the breaking wave height. 



14. Battjes (1975) used the Iribarren number (Iribarren and Nogales 

 1947), commonly called the surf similarity parameter, to describe breaker 

 type. The surf similarity parameter £ is defined as 



£ = 



(4) 



where H is wave height. The offshore parameter of Galvin (1968) can be 

 written as £~ 2 by specifying H as the wave height. Battjes converted the 

 transition values of Galvin to values of £ , resulting in 



surging or collapsing if £ > 3.3 

 plunging if 0.5 < £ < 3.3 

 spilling if £ < 0.5 



(5) 



Battjes defined an inshore parameter £ b = m(H b /L Q ) 1/2 and, by reanalyzing 

 the Galvin data, the following transition values were determined: 



surging or collapsing if £ b > 2.0 

 plunging if 0.4 < £ b < 2.0 

 spilling if £ b < 0.4 



(6) 



16 



