Figure 3. Collapsing wave 



where g is acceleration due to gravity, and T is the wave period. 

 Review 



12. Patrick and Wiegel (1954) classified breaker type as spilling, 

 plunging, and surging. Patrick and Wiegel observed in the field that breaker 

 type depended primarily upon beach slope m and deepwater wave steepness. 

 They determined spilling breakers occur for large values of H /L on flat 

 slopes, surging breakers occur for small values of H /L on very steep 

 slopes, and plunging breakers occur between the two extremes. 



13. Galvin (1968) introduced collapsing breaker type as an intermediate 

 form of breaker between plunging and surging waves. Galvin defined two param- 

 eters, the "offshore parameter" and the "inshore parameter," to classify 

 breaker type, expressed in terms of the beach slope and wave steepness. 

 Transition values were found to be 



surging-collapsing if 



< 0.09 



L„m z 



(2) 



plunging if 0.09 < < 4.80 



L„m 2 



15 



