No. Page 



17 Xp/Hb as a function of £ 55 



18 Xp/Hb as a function of £ b 57 



19 Xp/H as a function of £ 57 



20 Sketch of tank used in study 59 



21 Gages 3-6 60 



22 Video equipment used in study 61 



23 Definition sketch of typical bar 62 



24 Maximum H /L as a function of T 64 



25 Predicted wave forms produced by a periodic wave 



generator, after Galvin (1970) 65 



26 Sketch of terraced bar 67 



27 Shape of typical bar used in study 68 



28 Spectral shape of irregular wave signal used to 



control wave board and predicted shape of 



water surface spectrum 74 



29 Breaker type as a function of £ 80 



30 Breaker type as a function of the relative 



length parameter 81 



31 Comparison of measured K r with predicted values 



of Battjes (1975) and Miche (1951) as a 



function of £ 82 



32 Measured wave reflection and predicted values 



of Ahrens (1987) as a function of P 83 



33 Wave reflection as a function of p x 84 



34 7 b as a function of £ 86 



35 Collapsing wave at incipient breaking 87 



36 Expression of 7 b as a function of £ 89 



37 Exponential expression of 7 b as a function 



of Co 90 



38 Comparison of breaker depth relationships 



developed for barred profiles and plane slopes 90 



39 flb as a function of H /L 91 



40 Function C^) 94 



41 Function n^) 94 



42 Regression curves of f^ as a function of H /L 95 



43 Calculated values of fij, as a function of H /L 95 



44 fit as a function of H /L 98 



45 Xp/H b as a function of £ 99 



46 Xp/H b as a function of £ b 100 



47 Xp/H as a function of £ 101 



48 X s /H b as a function of £ 102 



49 Xp/X s as a function of £ 103 



50 Xp/X s as a function of £ b 103 



51 X t /H b as a function of £ 104 



52 X t /H b as a function of £ b 105 



53 X t /H as a function of £ 106 



54 Exponential relation for Ay/H^ as a function of £ 107 



55 Linear relation for Ay/H^ as a function of £ 108 



56 Linear relation for Ay/H^ as a function of ^ 108 



57 Wave height as a function of horizontal distance 110 



58 R/H as a function of fi x 113 



59 R/H as a function of £ 113 



