CONTENTS 



Page 



PREFACE 1 



LIST OF TABLES 4 



LIST OF FIGURES 4 



CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) 



UNITS OF MEASUREMENTS 8 



PART I: INTRODUCTION 9 



Background 9 



Purpose 10 



Content 11 



PART II: REVIEW OF RELATED STUDIES 13 



Breaker Type 13 



Wave Reflection 17 



Breaker Index 19 



Plunge Distance 33 



Breaker Vortex 34 



Wave Height Decay 35 



Wave Runup 40 



Analysis of Previous Data 42 



Summary 58 



PART III: EXPERIMENT ARRANGEMENT 59 



Facility and Equipment 59 



Design Wave Conditions 62 



Bar Design 66 



Test Procedure 70 



PART IV: RESULTS 75 



Breaker Type 76 



Wave Reflection 82 



Breaker Index 84 



Plunge Distance 99 



Splash Distance 101 



Penetration Distance 104 



Breaker Vortex 106 



Wave Height Decay 109 



Wave Runup 109 



Wave Steepness Scaling 115 



Irregular Waves 120 



Measurement Errors 141 



PART V: SUMMARY AND RECOMMENDATONS 144 



Monochromatic Tests 144 



Irregular Wave Tests 147 



Recommendations for Future Study 147 



REFERENCES 149 



APPENDIX A: BREAKER DATA Al 



