Kr 



0.5 



0.4 



0.3 



0.2 - 



0.1 



0.0 







+ 













(deg) 

 ■ 

















o 



4- 20 



O 30 O 



- 



4- 



4- 



o 



o 



D 







1 



□ 40 



X Plane SBpe 

 Predjsiea 



X 





° 





a 













4-n+o 



□ 













X 



Q 



JL&^O 





_— 5-Q- 



o 



+ 





. 



X 



a}- 



O^ 4° 



CO 



9 











- X 



i 



+ -t- 

 i 



□ 



D 



i 





i 



1 



i i 



5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 



/? (deg) 



Figure 33. Wave reflection as a function of p 1 



for 1.9 deg < P r < 40 deg. The results indicate that K r for barred profiles 

 is effectively independent of wave steepness. 



Breaker Index 



131. The study required analysis of several hundred waves of widely 

 varying forms. Therefore, it was advantageous to use the most consistent and 

 easily applied definition of incipient breaking. Because velocity, accelera- 

 tion, pressure, and radiation stress were not directly measured in this study, 

 the break point could not be defined by these variables (Singamsetti and Wind 

 1980). Possible definitions compatible with the capability of the video sys- 

 tem and placement of wave gages were (a) the point where the wave cannot adapt 

 to the bottom configuration and begins to disintegrate, (b) the point where 

 the wave height is maximum, (c) and the point where part of the wave front 

 becomes vertical. Several wave gages closely spaced in the vicinity of the 

 break point would be required to accurately define the break point based on 

 maximum wave height. Consequently, it was felt the limited number of wave 

 gages available for the study would be better used to record wave height in 



84 



