

Hb/hb 





1.5 







1.3 



a j> 



® 



1.1 



./< 



® ® 

 ® ® 



® ® 

 ® u 



Points excluded 



0.9 



y^' ' 



in analysis 



0.7 



•'° 





0.2 



0.4 



0.6 



0.8 



1.0 



1.2 



a. Spilling and plunging waves 



Hb/hb 



b. Collapsing waves 



Figure 36. Expression of 7 b as a function of £ c 



89 



