wave height as a function of the surf similarity parameter. Data obtained 

 from terraced bar cases were not included in analysis because the shoreward 

 face of the bar hindered forward travel of the wave crest. The line shown in 

 Figure 51 is given by 



= Q.95^" 1 + 3.85 



(93) 



with limits of 0.31 < £ < 3.46 . The expression for X t /H b as a function 

 of the local surf similarity parameter shown in Figure 52 is 



Xt/Hb 



Figure 52. X t /H b as a function of £ t 



= l.OOCb 1 +3.85 



H b 



(94) 



for 0.33 < £ b < 2.74 . Both Equations 93 and 94 were determined by visual 

 fit. Penetration distance normalized by H shows much scatter if plotted 

 versus £ (Figure 53) . The hypothesis made that Xp is primarily dependent 

 on local wave height also applies to penetration distance. 



105 



