APPENDIX D: NOTATION 



a(m) Empirical coefficient in breaker depth equation, 



Weggel (1972)* and present study. 



A Coefficient in breaker height equation (Goda 1975) 



A b Cross-sectional area of reef 



A s Cross -sectional area of surface roller 



Ay Cross -sectional area of vortex 



b(m) Empirical coefficient in breaker depth equation, 



Weggel (1972) and present study. 



B Nondimensional energy flux 



c Coefficient in equation for depth over bar crest 



C Wave celerity 



C 1 Coefficient in generic breaker index equations 



C 2 Coefficient in generic breaker index equations 



C g Group speed of waves 



C gb Group speed of waves at breaking in the presence of return 



flow 



C(m) Empirical coefficient in breaker height equation 



C(B 1 ) Empirical exponent in breaker height equation for barred 



profiles 



D x Empirical function for breaker height (Weggel 1972) 



D 2 Empirical function for breaker height (Weggel 1972) 



E Wave energy 



f p Spectral peak frequency 



F Wave energy flux 



f(m) Function of beach slope 



F(m) Empirical function in breaker height (Weggel 1972) 



F s Stable wave energy flux 



g Acceleration due to gravity 



G Spectral peak enhancement parameter 



G(m) Empirical function in breaker height (Weggel 1972) 



h Still-water depth 



h' Water depth in horizontal section of wave tank 



h b Water depth at breaking 



h c Water depth at crest of bar 



* See References at the end of the main text . 



Dl 



