h s Water depth at reef toe 



h t Water depth at trough of bar 



H Wave height 



H' Wave height measured in horizontal section of wave tank 



H 1/3 Average of the highest one -third wave heights in a 

 wave record 



H b Breaking wave height 



H b Breaking wave height in the presence of return flow 



H i Incident wave height 



H,,,^ Maximum wave height 



H Deepwater wave height 



(H ) m Wave height in model 



(H ) pr Wave height in prototype 



(H s ) Significant deepwater wave height 



H r Reflected wave height 



Hj^g Root-mean- square wave height 



H s Significant wave height 



H s Significant wave height measured in horizontal section of 

 wave tank 



H /L Deepwater wave steepness 



(H o /L o ) 0r Critical wave steepness for reflection (Miche 1951) 



(H /L ) m Model deepwater wave steepness 



(H /L ) pr Prototype deepwater wave steepness 



k Wave number 



K Coefficient in breaker height equation (Goda 1975) 



K Dimensionless decay coefficient (Dally, Dean, and Dalrymple 

 1985a, 1985b) 



K r Reflection coefficient 



L Wavelength 



L' Wavelength calculated in horizontal section of wave tank 



Lj;, Wavelength at break point 



L Deepwater wavelength 



(L s ) Significant deepwater wavelength 



(Lp) Peak deepwater wavelength 



L s Wavelength at reef toe 



m Beach slope 



n Ratio of group velocity to individual wave velocity 



D2 



