n Empirical exponent wave decay equation (Smith and 

 Kraus 1988) 



n-L Exponent in generic breaker index equations 



n 2 Exponent in generic breaker index equations 



n(m) Empirical exponent in breaker height equation for 

 plane slopes 



nC/Sj^) Empirical exponent in breaker height equation for barred 

 profiles 



P Reef reflection parameter 



R Runup 



R Average runup 



R 2 Two -percent runup 



R s Significant runup 



s Exponent in breaker height equation (Goda 1975) 



S! Horizontal distance from the bar crest to the seaward toe of 

 the bar 



Sjjx Radiation stress 



T Wave period 



T m Wave period in model 



T p Peak wave period 



T pr Wave period in prototype 



T s Significant wave period 



U Horizontal velocity component 



U b Horizontal velocity component at break point 



x Horizontal distance 



x Coefficient in breaker height equation (Goda 1975) 



Xp Plunge distance 



X s Splash distance 



X t Penetration distance 



z Reef height 



a Coefficient in hydraulic jump dissipation rate equation 



ft Beach slope angle 



Pi Lower (primary) seaward bar angle 



Pi Upper (secondary) seaward bar angle 



f} 3 Shoreward bar angle 



T Empirical stable wave factor equal to ratio of stable wave 

 height to water depth 



7 b Ratio of wave height to water depth at breaking 



e Energy dissipation rate 



D3 



