d = ri + h = total water depth, ft 



T, and T, = bottom friction stresses in the x- and 

 bx by 2 



y-directions, respectively, lb/ft 



S , S , and S = radiation stresses which arise because of the 

 ^^ ^^ ^" excess momentum flux due to waves (refer to 

 Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1964) for their 

 significance) , lb/ft 



T = lateral shear stress due to turbulent mixing, 

 xy 



lb/ft 



. OCEAN 

 BOUNDARY 

 LINE 



a. CROSS-SECTION A-A 



BREAKER LINE 





SET-UP LINE 



b. PLAN 



Figure 8. Definition sketch for an irregular beach 

 (swl = still-water level) 



32 



