qj. Local volumetric sediment transport rate 



q , q Local volumetric sediment transport rates In x- and 

 y-directions 



R Rate of water volume change due to rainfall or evaporation 



s Arbitrary variable, mass density of sediment relative to that 

 of fluid (specific gravity of sediment) , wave phase function 



S S , S Radiation stresses 

 XX, xy yy 



t Time 

 T Wave period 

 u Wave orbital velocity at the bottom 



orb 



Time average of the absolute value of the wave orbital 

 velocity at bottom 



u, V Tidal velocity components 



U, V Velocity components due to wave-induced currents 



Total velocity component = u + U 



Shear (friction) velocity 



Longshore velocity 



Total velocity component = v + V 



Coordinates in real space 



Width of surf zone 



Dimenslonless grain diameter 



Coordinates in computational space 



Breaking index = H/h 



Proportionality coefficient 



Centered difference operators 



Time-step 



Cell dimensions in real space 



Cell dimensions in computational space 



Eddy viscosity for tidal model 



Eddy viscosities in x- and y-directlons 



Bed elevation 



Tidal elevation above datum 



Mean free surface displacement (setup) 



Hydrostatic water elevation due to atmospheric pressure 

 differences 



Angle of wave propagation 



Wave direction in deep water 



A2 





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V* 





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