6 Contour angle 



K Rate of energy dissipation coefficient 



K Refraction coefficient 



r 



K Shoaling coefficient 



y , y Grid expansion coefficients 

 X y 



V Kinematic viscosity of fluid 



TT 3.14159... 



P Mass density of sea water 



p Mass density of solids 



s ■' 



o Wave angular frequency = 2Tr/T 



T Bed shear stress 

 o 



T, , T Bottom friction stresses in x- and y-directions 



T Lateral shear stress due to turbulent mixine 

 xy =• 



<() Complex velocity potential for wave 

 Superscripts 



k-I Previous time level 



k Present time level 



k+1 Next time level 



* Intermediate time level 

 Subscripts 



b At breaking 



s Stable level of a variable 



t Partial derivative with respect to time 



A3 



