4.4.1 Kinematics 70 



5 Array of Water Surface Traces 72 



5.1 Formulation of Solution 72 



5.2 Formulation of the Optimization 76 



5.3 Computation Methods 78 



5.3.1 Pre-Processing of Record 79 



5.3.2 Optimization Procedure 81 



5.4 Theoretical Records 90 



5.4.1 Single Wave Records 90 



5.4.2 Records of Two Intersecting Waves 105 



5.5 Laboratory Measurements 116 



5.5.1 Laboratory Experiment 116 



5.5.2 Laboratory Results 118 



5.6 Discussion 121 



6 Array of Subsurface Pressure Measurements 123 



6.1 Formulation of Solution 123 



6.2 Formulation of the Optimization 126 



6.3 Computation Methods 128 



6.3.1 Pre-Processing of Record 129 



6.3.2 Optimization Procedure 129 



6.4 Theoretical Records 135 



6.4.1 Single Wave Records 135 



6.4.2 Records of Two Intersecting Waves 139 



6.5 Field Measurements 145 



6.5.1 Field Results 145 



6.6 Discussion 151 



7 Conclusions 153 



7.1 Future Work 154 



Bibliography 157 



A Intersecting wave theory 166 



A.l Introduction 166 



A. 2 Theoretical Background 166 



A. 3 Analytical Verification 168 



A. 4 Numerical Verification 169 



A.4.1 Richardson Extrapolation 170 



A.4.2 More Complex Seas 173 



A. 5 Depths of Vahdity 175 



