141 



300 







Figure 6.5: Water surface of short crested wave at t=0 



is located at 10m below the MWL. The LFI method applied to third order (J = 3) 

 again finds the kinematics for this wave almost exactly. In this case, the standard 

 window width was also Is (tq = O-lTj), with four water surface nodes {M = 4) and 

 six samples on the pressure records (/ = 6) distributed uniformly in time in each 

 window, resulting in 26 equations in 24 unknowns. 



Figure 6.7 is the same short crested wave, but computed with the single wave 

 method of the LFI solution. In this case, the LFI solution still matches the measured 

 pressure record very well, as is virtually always the case, as those measurements are 

 part of the optimization. The predicted water surface is also fairly accurate, but 

 with the predicted crest slightly underestimated. The vertical velocity is also fairly 

 accurate. The LFI predictions for horizontal velocities, on the other hand, are very 

 different from the Ohyama solution. The resulting discontinuities in the predictions 

 for the horizontal velocities make it clear that something important is missing from 

 the solution. The single wave method is simply not able to capture a short crested 

 sea made up of two distinct directional components. 



