REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE 



Form Approved 

 0MB No. 0704-0188 



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1. AGENCY USE ONLY (Leave blank) 



2. REPORT DATE 



March 1991 



3. REPORT TYPE AND DATES COVERED 



Final report 



4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE 



Directional Characteristics of Waves in Shallow Water 



6. AUTHOR(S) 



Charles E. Long 

 Joan M. Oltman-Shay 



7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 



USAE Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering 

 Research Center, 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 

 39180-6199; Oregon State University, College of Oceanog 

 raphy. Oceanography Administration Building 104, 

 Corvallis, OR 97331-5503 



5. FUNDING NUMBERS 



Civil Works Research 

 Work Unit 32484 



8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION 

 REPORT NUMBER 



Technical Report 

 CERC-91-1 



9. SPONSORING /MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 



US Army Corps of Engineers 

 Washington, DC 20314-1000 



10. SPONSORING / MONITORING 

 AGENCY REPORT NUMBER 



11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 



Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, 

 Springfield, VA 22161 



12a. DISTRIBUTION /AVAILABILITY STATEMENT 



Approved for public release; distribution unlimited 



12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE 



13. ABSTRACT (Maximum 200 words) 



Proper coastal engineering design relies ultimately on a complete 

 description of sea states to which natural or man-made structures are exposed. 

 The character of directionally distributed wind wave energy is an intuitively 

 and demonstrably important aspect of sea state definition, yet no long-term 

 high-resolution coastal observations exist upon which to base engineering 

 guidance. To remedy this, a multi-year series of directional wind sea and 

 swell measurements has been undertaken at the Field Research Facility (FRF) of 

 the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Coastal Engineering Research 

 Center (CERC) . This report contains a preliminary analysis of 1,046 directional 

 observations obtained during the first year of data collection. The climate 

 during this year was typical of this site based on longer time series observa- 

 tions of winds, waves, and currents at the FRF. 



(Continued) 



14. SUBJECT TERMS 



Directional spectra 

 Nearshore processes 

 Wave climate 



Wave measurements 

 Wind waves 



15. NUMBER OF PAGES 



154 



16. PRICE CODE 



17. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 

 OF REPORT 



UNCLASSIFIED 



SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 

 OF THIS PAGE 



UNCLASSIFIED 



SECURITY CLASSIFICATION 

 OF ABSTRACT 



20. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT 



NSN 7540-01-280-5500 



Standard Form 298 (Rev 2-89) 



Prescribed by ANSI Std Z39-18 

 298-102 



