PREFACE 



A paucity of observations of directionally distributed wave energy has 

 hindered understanding and modeling of nearshore processes which affect 

 coastal engineering projects. To help alleviate this dearth of knowledge, a 

 long-term series of observations using a special, high-resolution directional 

 wave gage has been initiated. This study was authorized by Headquarters, US 

 Army Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE) , under Civil Works Research Work Unit 32484, 

 Directionality of Waves in Shallow Water, Coastal Flooding Program. Funds 

 were provided through the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) , 

 Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) , under the program management of 

 Dr. C. Linwood Vincent, CERC. Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr., John G. Housley, 

 James E. Crews, and Charles W. Hummer were HQUSACE Technical Monitors. 



The study was conducted by Dr. Charles E. Long at CERC's Field Research 

 Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC, in cooperation with Dr. Joan M. Oltman-Shay of 

 Oregon State University under the Inter-Governmental Personnel Act. The work 

 was carried out under the direct supervision of Mr. William A. Birkemeier, 

 Chief, FRF, and Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, Engineering Development 

 Division, CERC; and under the general supervision of Dr. James R. Houston and 

 Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Chief and Assistant Chief, CERC, respectively. 



Coordination of the initial installation of the directional gage was 

 done by Messrs. Curt Mason, former Chief, and H. Carl Miller of the FRF. 

 Installation and continued physical maintenance of the gage were done by the 

 FRF dive team consisting of Messrs. Michael W. Leffler, William A. Birkemeier, 

 H. Carl Miller, Eugene W. Bichner, and Brian L. Scarborough. Gage calibration 

 has been maintained by Messrs. William E. Grogg (formerly) and Kent K. 

 Hathaway (currently) of the FRF. Acquisition, monitoring, and storage of raw 

 data have been done by Mr. Clifford F. Baron of the FRF. Substantial 

 preparation of this manuscript was done by Mmes. Harriet M. Klein (formerly) 

 and Dawn S. Miller (currently) of the FRF. This report was edited by 

 Ms. Shirley A. J. Hanshaw, Information Technology Laboratory, WES. 



Commander and Director of WES during the publication of this report was 

 COL Larry B. Fulton, EN. Dr. Robert W. Whalin was Technical Director. 



