s Index of a discrete direction bounding a mode on the right 

 (clockwise) side; 

 a parameter in an analytic directional distribution model 



S Spectral density 



S(f) Frequency spectral density (continuous) 



S(fj,) Integrated frequency spectral density at frequency f„ 



S(^) Direction spectral density (continuous) 



S(^jn) Integrated direction spectral density at direction 6^ 



S(f,^) Frequency-direction spectral density (continuous) 



S(fn,^m) Frequency-direction spectral density at frequency fj, and 

 direction 8^ 



SW Spectrally weighted 



t Time 



T Wave period 



Tp Spectral peak period 



Tp JP2 Peak period from the integrated frequency spectrum 



X Position vector; components (x,y) 



X Cross shore position 



x^ , X2 Specific cross shore positions 



y Longshore position 



y^ , y2 Specific longshore positions 



YLAG Basic unit of linear array gage spacing 



P A parameter in an analytic model of directional 



distributions 



r The Gamma function 



A^ Directional spread parameter 



A^„ Directional spread parameter of a 180 -deg directional 

 distribution at frequency fj, 



A9^^ Directional spread parameter of mode k within a 



directional distribution at frequency f^ 



B3 



