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BIMODAL AND MULTIMODAL WAVE SPECTRA . 20 



ERROR CONSIDERATIONS .......... 21 



CONCLUDING REMARKS ....... 22 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ....... 23 



REFERENCES ..... ....... 25 



APPENDIX - FLOWCHART OF DIRECTIONAL WAVE ANALYSIS PROGRAM 29 



LIST OF FIGURES 



1 - Wave Measurement in Finite Water Depths ..... 31 



2 - Waves Crossing a Front During the SEBEX Experiment 32 



3 - ENDECO Type 956 Wave Track Buoy ■ 33 



h - Principle of the ENDECO Buoy 3h 



5 - Data Collection Procedure 35 



6 - Graphic Form of Energy Densities, Mean Directions and 



RMS Spreading of Table 1 36 



7 - Wave/Current Interaction During the SEBEX Experiment 



Waves in (a) Fixed Coordinate and (b) Moving 



Coordinate Systems 37 



8 - Bimodal Wave Spectrum in Shallow Water During Storm Driven Seas 38 



LIST OF TABLES 



1 - Sample Output of Directional Wave Spectrum 39 



2 - Sample Output of Directional Spreading . ^0 



