TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 



LIST OF FIGURES iv 



LIST OF TABLES iv 



ABSTRACT 1 



ADMINISTRATIVE INFORMATION 1 



INTRODUCTION 1 



COMPLEXITY OF WAVE ENVIRONMENT 3 



TECHNIQUE OF WAVE MEASUREMENT 3 



CHOICE OF SENSOR k 



ANALYSIS OF THE DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRUM 5 



METHOD OF ANALYSIS 5 



THE DIRECTIONAL SPREADING FUNCTION 7 



Fourier Coefficient with Weight Parameter 7 



Parametrical Models 8 



Other Spreading Functions 9 



MEASUREMENT OF DIRECTIONAL WAVES BY AN ORBITAL FOLLOWING BUOY 10 



MEASURING PROCEDURE ..... 10 



DATA COLLECTION 11 



DATA EDITING ....... 12 



ANALYSIS PROGRAM Ik 



COMPUTED RESULTS - A SAMPLE ik 



DISCUSSION ......... ...... 16 



LINEAR WAVE THEORY AND NONLINEAR EFFECTS l6 



Current Effects 17 



Effect of Water Depth 20 



