PREFACE 



The investigation described in this report was authorized as part 

 of the Civil Works Research and Development Program by Headquarters , US Army 

 Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE) . This study was conducted by the Surf Zone 

 Sediment Transport Processes Work Unit No. 34321, under the Shore Protection 

 and Restoration Program at the Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) of 

 the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES). Messrs. John H. 

 Lockhart, Jr., and John G. Housley were the HQUSACE Technical Monitors. 

 Dr . C . Linwood Vincent was CERC Program Manager . 



The study was performed by CERC in two phases, a field experiment 

 planned and conducted from 1 June 1985 through 30 September 1985, and subse- 

 quent analysis of the data conducted from 1 October 1986 to 30 June 1987. The 

 first phase was performed by Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus , Senior Research Scientist 

 and Principal Investigator, Surf Zone Sediment Transport Processes Work Unit, 

 Research Division (CR), and Ms. Julie Dean Rosati , Hydraulic Engineer, Coastal 

 Design and Structures Branch (CD-S), Engineering Division; the second phase 

 was performed by Dr. Kraus, Ms. Rosati, and Ms. Kathryn J. Gingerich, Physical 

 Scientist, Coastal Processes Branch (CR-P) . 



The dedicated professionals who assisted in the data collection under 

 harsh environmental conditions of the surf zone are acknowledged. Key 

 members, their affiliations at the time of the project, and their major 

 function during data collection were: Dr. Lindsay Nakashima, Louisiana 

 Geological Survey, sediment processing, surveying, experiment design; Messrs. 

 Gary Howell and Ray Townsend, Prototype Measurement and Analysis Branch, CERC, 

 current meter setup and current measurement; Ms. Jane M. Smith, Oceanography 

 Branch (CR-0) , current data collection and trap operator; Ms. Mary Cialone, 

 CR-P, surveying, sediment processing, and trap operator; Dr. Shintaro Hotta, 

 Tokyo Metropolitan University, Tokyo, Japan, photopole wave measurement team 

 leader; Mr. Bruce Ebersole, CR-P, and Dr. Steven Hughes, CR-0, photopole 

 camera operators and trap operators. Field assistants were: Drs. Hans Hanson 

 and Magnus Larson, University of Lund, Sweden, Ms. Mary Sue Jablonsky, 

 Virginia Institute of Marine Science, and Dr. Hyo Kang, Old Dominion 



