The wave climate offshore of Monmouth Beach is influenced by sheltering 

 from the north by the landmass of Long Island, New York. The short fetch 

 between Long Island and Monmouth Beach limits locally generated wave 

 growth. Directional statistics compiled for the wave record at Long Branch 

 indicate that the most common measured wave direction is from the east- 

 southeast (approximately 35 percent of the total waves measured). Directional 

 characteristics (both seasonal and cumulative) of the measured wave record at 

 Long Branch are presented in Figures 3 through 7. These figures reveal apparent 

 seasonal variations in the wave climate. Waves during spring and summer tend 

 to approach most frequently from the southeast (37 and 43 percent, respectively), 

 whereas wave approaches during the fall and winter tend to be from the east- 

 southeast (40 and 39 percent, respectively). 



The shoreline orientation at Monmouth Beach is approximately 4 deg east of 

 north, resulting in a net wave-generated longshore sediment transport to the 

 north, as observed by sand impoundment on the north side of groins in the area. 

 Only 2.3 percent of the total measured wave events show an approach from north 

 of the sector centered about due east. The long-term predominant direction of 

 longshore transport to the north is well known (Caldwell 1966). 



Both tropical storms (hurricanes) and extratropical storms (northeasters) are 

 experienced along the north New Jersey coast. The most energetic waves occur 

 during the fall and winter months (when frequent northeasters occur). Spring and 

 summer are typically less energetic, but Atlantic Ocean hurricanes during the 

 months of July through November can contribute large wave heights to the 

 record. The length of the wave record collected at the Long Branch wave gauge 

 is insufficient to characterize the storm climate, but some general observations 

 can be discussed. The largest significant wave height measured at the Long 

 Branch gauge was 4.2 m. The maximum wave height during a given month 

 during the data-collection period ranges from 4.2 m in November to 1.8 m in 

 May. Details of average and maximum wave heights in the 3-year record are 

 given in Appendix A. 



Beach Profile 



Beach profiles within the hot spot were surveyed as part of beach-fill con- 

 struction monitoring. Beach profiles are presented at three locations within the 

 hot spot. Figure 2 identifies selected locations of the beach profiles measured 

 within the hot spot area. Beach profiles surveyed during October 1995 (just prior 

 to the emergency fill) within the hot spot are presented in Figures 8 through 10 

 (note that the photograph of Figure 2 was taken September 1996.) The beach 

 profiles within the hot spot are of similar shape, but become increasingly steep 

 near Groin 44. The steep slope of the beach profile is likely due to the combined 

 influence of the groin and the bathymetric contours to the north, which lie 

 considerably deeper because of the offset in beach planform. 



Berm width (elevation 3.5 m NGVD) increases with distance towards 

 Groin 44. from 1 8 m at Profile 275 to 46 m at Profile 255. Relationships 



Chapter 2 Summary of Acting Coastal Processes 



