PgH.'nC 



(1) 



where: 



p 



= 



wave power 



p 



= 



water density 



8 



= 



acceleration of gravity 



Ho 



= 



deepwater wave height 



n 



= 



0.5 



C 



= 



wave phase speed 



The directional spread of this flux calculated from the 17-month wave data 

 record at Colorado River is shown in Figure 14. The energy flux has been 

 divided into 15-deg bins relative to the shore-normal direction (155 deg). 

 Negative angles show the energy coming from easterly directions (Louisiana) 

 and positive angles show the energy coming from southerly directions 

 (Mexico). Clearly a large majority of die wave energy approaches the coast 

 from an easterly direction, which makes the net longshore sediment transport to 

 the southwest (toward Mexico). 



1.2 



W 



A 1-0 



V 



E 0.8 



F 0.6 



L 



U 0.4 



X 



DIRECTIONAL WAVE ENERGY FLUX 



COLORADO RIVER, TX 





















































y 



^ 





\^ 















\ 



^^ 











0.0 



/ 







^ 



^.^^ 









-75 -60 -45 -30 -15 15 30 45 60 75 90 

 SHORE NORMAL DIRECTION 



Figure 14. Directional distribution of wave energy flux in kilowatts per 

 meter of crest length 



Surf Zone Sediment Transport Measurements 



Sediment concentrations at points within the surf zone were measured using 

 stacks of OBS's and ECM's mounted on a platform and two sleds during the 

 surf zone experiments as described in Chapter 3. Examples of the OBS 



Chapter 4 Data Observations and Analyses 



31 



