PREFACE 



Portions of the work described herein were authorized as a part of the 

 Civil Works Research and Development Program by Headquarters , US Army Corps of 

 Engineers (HQUSACE) . Work was performed under the Shoreline and Beach 

 Topography Response Modeling Work Unit 32592, and the Calculation of Cross - 

 Shore Sediment Transport and Beach Profile Change Work Unit 32530 which are 

 part of the Shore Protection and Restoration Program at the Coastal 

 Engineering Research Center (CERC) , US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment 

 Station (WES). Messrs. John H. Lockhart, Jr., James E. Crews, and John G. 

 Housley were HQUSACE Technical Monitors. Dr. Charles L. Vincent was Program 

 Manager for the Shore Protection and Restoration Program at CERC. 



The studies at CERC were performed over the period 1 January 1988 

 through 30 October 1989 by Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus , Senior Scientist, Research 

 Division (RD) , CERC; Dr. Norman W. Scheffner, Research Hydraulic Engineer, and 

 Mr. Mark G. Gravens , Hydraulic Engineer, Coastal Processes Branch (CPB) , RD; 

 and Dr. Steven A. Hughes, Hydraulic Engineer, Wave Dynamics Division (WDD) , 

 CERC. Collaborators in this work were Drs. Hans Hanson and Magnus Larson, 

 Department of Water Resources Engineering, Institute of Science and 

 Technology, University of Lund, Sweden, and Dr. Lindsay Nakashima, formerly of 

 the Coastal Geology Section, Louisiana Geological Survey, and presently at 

 Woodward -Clyde Consultants, Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Acknowledgments for site- 

 specific studies are contained within the main text. 



The studies at CERC were under general administrative supervision of 

 Dr. James R. Houston and Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Chief and Assistant 

 Chief, CERC, respectively, and under direct administrative supervision of 

 Mr. H. Lee Butler, Chief, RD; Mr. Claude E. Chatham, Jr., Chief, WDD; and 

 Mr. Bruce A. Ebersole, Chief, CPB. 



Dr. Kraus coordinated development and review of the papers. Mr. Gravens 

 and Dr. Mark R. Byrnes, CPB, were Principal Investigators of Work Units 32592 

 and 32530, respectively. Ms. Carolyn J. Dickson, CPB, reformatted the papers 

 and provided organizational support in preparing the manuscript. 



COL Larry B. Fulton, EN, was Commander and Director of WES during final 

 report preparation. Dr. Robert W. Whalin was Technical Director. 



