10"'- 













Bar 



3erm 







/ 











■ ■ 





■ CRIEPI ■ 



^ = 0.00070 (■ 

 Lo * 









J 





















j 























/ 







• 







• 







□ 





/ 1 



















Hn,3 





/ 







s 













22\ 



D 



J 



r 











13 









vT 



; 



■ 



• 



C 







< 























/ 



















in" J 















; 



i 

































/ 



































/ 





































J 



% 

































? 

































a °o / 





• 































/ 



































/ 



























c 









o r * 

 o / 























io" s - 







o 







/ 







1 

















5*10 



10" 



10' 



H /wT 



Figure 1. Criterion to distinguish bar and berm profiles 



sionless fall speed and has been found to be a useful quantity for describing 

 profile change (Dean 1973; Larson 1988; Larson, Kraus , and Sunamura 1988). 

 Equation 3 was originally derived based on beach profile change produced by 

 large monochromatic waves in the laboratory; recent work indicates H should 

 be taken as the mean wave height in field applications (Larson, Kraus, and 

 Sunamura, 1988). 

 Transport rate 



Larson, Kraus, and Sunamura (1988) identified four zones of cross -shore 

 sand transport, indicated in Figure 2, corresponding to properties of the 

 local wave field: Zone I, pre -breaking zone extending seaward from the break 

 point (BP) ; Zone II, breaker transition zone, between the break point and 

 plunge point (PP); Zone III, broken wave zone; and Zone IV, swash zone. The 



94 



