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NOTATION 



b subscript denoting wave breaking condition 



g acceleration of gravity 



h water depth 



o subscript denoting deepwater condition 



q cross -shore sand transport rate 



t time 



w sand fall velocity 



x distance across -shore 



A shape factor in equilibrium profile equation 



D wave energy dissipation per unit volume 



D eq wave energy dissipation over a profile of equilibrium shape 



F wave energy flux 



H wave height 



K empirical transport rate coefficient 



L wavelength 



T wave period 



/3 beach slope 



e empirical coefficient in slope -dependent transport term 



A empirical spatial decay coefficient in transport rate 



£ surf similarity parameter 



p density of water 



110 



