Contents 



Preface ix 



Conversion Factors, Non-SI to SI Units of Measurement xi 



Summary xii 



1 — Introduction 1 



Background 1 



Study Approach 3 



2 — Field Wave Measurements 9 



Planning 9 



Instrument Type and Site Selection 9 



Data Acquisition 10 



Analysis Methods 15 



Results 19 



3— Wind Wave and Swell Climate 34 



Sources 34 



Deepwater Wave Climate 34 



Wave Climate at Kahului Harbor 37 



4 — Numerical Model 41 



Objectives and Approach 41 



Model Description 42 



Test Procedures and Calculations 61 



5 — Harbor Response to Wind Waves and Swell 69 



Amplification Factors 69 



Evaluation Against Operational Criteria for Wind Waves and Swell 71 



