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DENE US' CHRONICLE. 



ARY 



The Week' s Work. 



PLANTS UNDER GLASS. 



By I nomas Stevenson, Gardener to E, Mocatta, Esq., 



Woburn Place, Addlestone, Surrey. 



Hippeastrum (Amaryllis). —Well- ripened 

 bulbs of Hippeastrum that flowered early last 



cason will n v be pushing their flower-spikes. 

 Where flowers are required fairly early in the 

 season, the plants may be placed in a moderately- 

 warm house. A little top-dressing is all that is 

 necessary to give the pots a tidy appearance. 

 Water should be afforded sparingly until the 

 flower-spikes are well advanc led, when the plants 

 may be given a little liquid manure. The 



;dneral collection of these plants should be over- 

 hauled later in the season, and any that need 

 potting may be attended to then, although it is 

 my practice to defer this operation until the 

 plants have flowered. 



Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Plants 

 that flowered early will now be past their best 

 condition. If an increase of stock is required, a 

 few of the best specimens may be reserved for the 

 purpose, shortening the shoots closely. Allow 

 the stock plants a rest in a moderately -cool 

 house ; afterwards, when placed in heat again, 

 they will develop suitable shoots fcr cuttings 

 readily. 



Begonia Gloire de Sceaux. — This beau- 

 tiful variety of Begonia should be kept growing 

 actively and given plenty of room. Under these 

 conditions, large specimens may be obtained in 

 comparatively small pots, and these will be ex- 

 tremely useful at this season of the year, either 

 for decorative purposes in both plant-houses and 

 dwelling-rooms. Other winter-flowering varieties 

 of Begonia, such as Winter Cheer, Ensign, and 

 Agatha, will still be attractive for some little 

 time, especially if the ventilation of the house is 

 attended to carefully. A little fresh air should 

 be admitted on all favourable occasions to keep 

 the atmosphere of the house comparatively dry, 

 which will favour the flowers remaining fresh. 



Chrysanthemums.— The present is a suit- 

 able time for striking a good batch of Japanese 

 Chrysanthemums, whether required for exhibi- 

 tion or decoration purposes. Many varieties 

 rooted now grow freely and develop their first 

 crown buds much better than earlier-struck 

 plants. The following varieties may be rooted 

 now : — James Lock, Mrs. A. T. Miller, Lady 

 Talbot, Walter Jinks, Miss A. Nicol, 

 Reginald Vallis, F. S. Vallis, Lady Crisp, 

 Alice Lemon, Mrs. G. Miieham, Master 

 James, Marie Loomes, Sir A. Rollit, and 

 William Turner. It is now a good time to 

 propagate the main batch of small- flowered de- 

 corative and single varieties, and I prefer to 

 root these kinds in boxes rather than in single 

 pots. The cooler the structure in which the 

 cuttings are rooted, the sturdier will the plants 

 develop. Batches of cuttings that were inserted 

 in December should now be rooting freely, and, 

 after admitting a little air to them for a few 

 days, they should be removed from the propa- 

 gating frame into a more airy position. The 

 staging and shelves of a cool greenhouse are pro- 

 bably the best positions, but, failing this, a cold 



or slightly-heated frame is suitable. No heat 

 should be afforded unless the weather is very 

 cold : but the plants enjoy all the light and air 

 possible when well rooted. They may be sprayed 

 very lightly overhead for a few days after they 

 are brought from the propagating pit, to prevent 

 flagging, but water at the roots must be afforded 

 sparingly till the days get longer, and the plants 

 well rooted. 



Mignonette. — If the plants of Mignonette 

 are in 3-inch pots (60*s), they will need a shift 

 into receptacles a size or tw r o larger. Employ a 

 good, gritty compost, and pot exceptionally 

 firmly. If the plants are fed carefully when 

 plenty of roots have formed, they should fur- 

 nish large spikes of flowers. Some place two 

 plants in a pot and pinch the leading shoots 

 once ; but if five or six seedlings are grown in 

 each pot and not pinched the flowers develop 

 slightly earlier. 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



By J. Collier, Gardener to Sir Jerilmiah Colman, Bart., 



Gatton Park, Keigate. 



Intermediate House. — P. ants of Miltonia 

 vexillaria and M. Bleuana are growing freely, 

 and should gain in strength as the days lengthen. 

 Plants that are well rooted will, from now on- 

 wards and until they have completed their 

 pseudo-bulbs, require an increased amount of 

 water at the roots. Often, during dull weather, 

 these Miltoniaa throw up growths with the 

 leaves folded together tightly. The latter, if not 

 released, will be permanently injured. The 

 handle of a budding knife should be employed to 

 part them, taking care not to injure the tissue. 

 This trouble will not occur when the days 

 lengthen and the sun increases in power. Thrips 

 must be kept under, for once they attack these 

 plants it is a very difficult matter to eradicate 

 them. The best plan is to spray the plants 

 overhead once a fortnight with a solution of 

 Quassia Extract, at the strength of half-a-pint 

 of the infusion to 3 gallons of water. Thrips 

 may also be destroyed by immersing the leaves 

 and young growths in this insecticide, being 

 careful not to let the liquid soak into the com- 

 post. Do not allow r water to remain in the 

 sheaths at the base of the new growths. Many 

 of the Brazilian Miltonias, such as M. Morelliana, 

 \[. spectabilis, M. Lubbersiana and M. Bluntii, 

 will soon be developing new roots. Any that re- 

 quire it should be repotted as soon as these 

 new roots appear, since it is important that 

 the young roots are not injured. The 

 plants succeed best in shallow pans in a compost 

 of Osmunda and Al fibre mixed with a small 

 quantity of Sphagnum-moss, chopped up moder- 

 ately short, and a liberal amount of crushed 

 crocks. Any plants that have grown from the 

 middle and over the sides of the pans should be 

 divided. Remove the old pseudo-bulbs except 

 two or three behind each new growth, and ar- 

 range the plants afresh into shapely specimens. 

 If the roots are not ^sufficient to hold the plants 

 firmly in the pans, fix the latter to the soil with 

 small wooden pegs. 



Zygopetalum.— As plants of Zygopetalurn 

 Macayi, Z. Wiganianum and Z. crinitum pass 

 out of flower they should be potted, if necessary. 

 These plants dislike root disturbance, and pot- 

 ting should not be done until it is absolutely 

 necessary. A suitable compost consists of two- 

 fifths fibrous loam and one part each of peat, leaf- 

 mould and Sphagnum-mo^s mixed with small 

 pieces of crocks, crushed bones and a little char- 

 coal. The method of potting should be the same 

 as is afforded ordinary greenhouse plants. Z. 

 Ballii, Z. Clayi, Z. rostratum arid Z. Rceblingia- 

 num thrive best in shallow pans suspended from 

 the roof rafters, in a moist, shady part of the 

 house. Employ as a rooting medium a mixture 

 of Osmunda-fibre, Al fibre, and Sphagnum-moss 

 chopped rather short. Z. Perrenoudii, Z. leuco- 

 chilum, Z. Clayi and Z. Protherianum are best 

 grown in pots in a similar compost. 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady Nunburnholme, 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Bush Fruits.— Bush fruits do best in a deep 

 soil. Bastard trenching should be practised 

 where the subsoil is poor and manure scarce, 

 but when the top soil is deep and dung and 

 burnt garden refuse plentiful, trenching the 

 ground 2 feet deep is best. In double digging or 

 bastard trenching, allow the top soil to remain 

 on top, simply breaking up the subsoil and en 

 riching it with manure or any other suitable 

 material that is available. If possible, bush 

 fruits should be planted in squares, as then wire 

 netting may be placed around the plantation, 

 and fish nets on the top to protect the buds as 

 well as the fruit from birds. Plant in rows at 

 6 feet apart, allowing 5 feet between the plants 

 in the rows. Black Currants may be grown in 

 moist, shady positions, where they will bear 

 freely, and succeed better generally than other 

 bush fruits. 



Pruning Bush Fruits.— The pruning of 

 the bushes may be deferred till later in districts 

 where bullfinches are numerous ; but it is best to 

 prune now, and trust to an occasional sprinkling 

 of limewash or some other wash not in- 



jurious to the buds to act as a deterrent to the 

 birds. Quassia extract, with about 2 ounces of 

 l'aris Green added to each 30 gallons of extract 

 is a suitable wash to save the buds from the 

 birds, and it will also destroy the eggs of the 

 aw fly and other insect pests. Before commenc- 

 ing to prune Gooseberries, take into considera- 

 tion the purpose for which the fruit is required. 

 If the berries are intended for use before they 

 are ripe, the shoots will not require much prun- 

 ing, but if choice dessert fruits are required, con- 

 siderable thinning is necessary, shortening the 

 side shoots to two or three buds. In pruning, 

 first remove any branches that are too close to 

 the ground, also those that cross each other, or 

 overcrowd the bushes. Finally, thin the young 

 shoots to 6 inches apart, shortening the leading 

 branches to about one-third of their length. 

 Well-established plants of Red and White Cur- 

 rant should have the side shoots shortened to 

 two buds, leaving 5 inches or 6 inches of the lead- 

 ing growths for extension. Remove worn-out 

 branches, and train young growths from the base 

 to take their places. The shoots of Black Cur- 

 rants do not require stopping, the removal of 

 some of the older and unsuitably -placed branches 

 being all the pruning they require. In many cases 

 beneficial results follow the removal of all the old 

 wood, treating the trees liberally afterwards. 

 Some of the shoots may be saved for making cut- 

 tings ; the others should be collected and burned. 

 If caterpillars have been troublesome on Goose- 

 berry bushes, remove the soil below the bushes 

 2 inches or 3 inches deep, and give a good dress- 

 ing of lime. Afterwards apply manure or fresh- 

 soil to replace that which was removed. Deep 

 digging is not necessary or advantageous in fruit 

 plantations, but shallow forking will give a neat 

 appearance to the garden. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G, Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastwell Park, Kent. 



Pruning Climbers.— Advantage should be 

 taken of mild weather to attend to the pruning, 

 and regulating of climbers, making them trim 

 and tidy. Many climbing species are afforded 

 warm situations on walls, where they start into* 

 growth much earlier than in the open. These 

 wall plants should be attended to first, or young, 

 shoots may develop and be injured when the 

 work is done. Considerable experience is needed 

 to prune climbers and shrubs, and the work 

 should be done by a responsible person. An in- 

 experienced operator may remove all the flower- 

 ing growths. Such plants as Jasminum nudi- 

 florum, Chimonanthus fragrans, and species of 

 Forsythia flower best on strong, w T ell-ripened 

 wood of the previous year's growth, and if these 

 young growths are cut off, the display of flowers 

 is reduced considerably. The pruning of such 

 plants should be left until the flowering is over. 



Lonicera and Am pelopsis. — If Honey- 

 suckles and Virginian Creepers have filled their 

 allotted spaces, they may be closely clipped or 

 pruned. If required for extension, the stronger 

 growths may be retained. Climbers are largely 

 grown by nurserymen in pots, therefore they 

 may be purchased and planted at almost any 

 season, but it is best to plant them now, so that 

 they may become established early in the year. 



Polygonum Baldschuanicum. — This 



beautiful plant is suitable for growing on walls, 

 and is very handsome when trained on dead 

 trees or on tall poles, such as Larch or Spruce 

 shoots roughly trimmed. The blooms last for 

 several months, whilst the long, slender shoots 

 are very attractive when clothed with the foliage. 

 If it is necessary to restrict the growth of the 

 plant, the shoots may be pruned back to the hard 

 wood ; but in the wild garden this Polygonum 

 may be allowed to grow naturally. 



Ornamental Vines. 



The various species of 



Vitis 



Vitis may be planted at almost any time. 

 Coignetiae, V. Thunbergii, V. armata, V. Thomp- 

 sonii, and V. heterophylla variegata are all desir- 

 able species. In most of these species the foliage 

 assumes brilliant hues in autumn. Established 

 plants should now be pruned, cutting the shoots 

 back to hard wood, but retaining a few of the 

 strongest branches, where necessary, for exten- 

 sion. 



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