February 10, 1912.] 



THE GARDENERS CHRONICLE. 



87 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady Nunburnholme, 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Raspberries. — Pew small fruits are easier to 

 cultivate or more profitable when well grown than 

 Raspberries. They require a rich, deep, and 

 moist, but not stagnant, soil. The ground should 

 be well prepared before planting, as the plants 

 usually occupy the same ground for many years. 

 The Raspberry will thrive in almost any position, 

 but it does best in an open situation in ground 

 that has either been trenched or deeply dug and 

 heavily manured. Plant in rows 4 feet to 5 feet 

 apart, allowing from 3 feet to 4 feet between the 

 stools in the rows. Select canes for planting of 

 a medium size in preference to large or gross ones, 

 cutting them down in March to about 8 inches 

 from the ground level. Established plantations 

 where the canes w r ere properly thinned last 

 autumn will require little attention now beyond 

 tying and topping of the shoots to the required 

 height in March, leaving five or six canes to a 

 stool. Supply fresh stakes where necessary, and 

 examine the framework from which the nets are 

 suspended to see if it is in need of repair. 

 Cut the shoots of autumn-fruiting Raspberries 

 down to the ground, and give all kinds a liberal 

 dressing of manure. Prick up the surface of the 

 soil lightly if the ground is heavy, before apply- 

 ing the mulching. 



Strawberries. — Examine the beds, with a 

 view to removing any runners that were over- 

 looked in the autumn. Afterwards lightly fork 

 over the soil just sufficiently to break the surface, 

 to get any weeds out that may be present, then 

 dress the beds with manure. There is a great 

 difference of opinion as to the value of mulching 

 or manuring Strawberries either in autumn or 

 spring. As a general rule, autumn manuring is 

 best, but in the ease of heavy and wet soils, care 

 must be exercised, as autumn manuring has a 

 tendency to encourage growth that is more sus- 

 ceptible to winter frosts. Old mulchings from 

 vine and Peach borders, cast loosely and roughly 

 amongst old beds in the autumn, encourage the 

 formation of surface roots, whilst a dressing of 

 this kind protects the plants and suits them better 

 than heavy manure. Rake and clear the beds of 

 weeds and mulch with manure or stable litter, 

 the straw of which will be washed clean before 

 the fruits ripen. If slugs or snails are trouble- 

 some, give a dressing of soot ; if soot is not avail- 

 able, lime or charred refuse may be used instead. 

 Young plantations of Strawberries should be 

 cleared of weeds in- dry weather, and the soil 

 madQ firm by treading around each plant. Any 

 plants that have died may be made good from 

 runners reserved for the purpose in another part 

 of the garden. Afterwards give a good dressing 

 of stable manure or manure from an old mush- 

 room bed. If spring planting is contemplated, 

 prepare the ground thoroughly as recommended 

 for Raspberries, but defer planting till the middle 

 or end of March. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



By Edwin Beckett, Gardener to the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, 



Aldenham House, Hertfordshire. 



Spinach.— Complaints reach me from various 

 parts of the country of the unsatisfactory condi- 

 tion of the Spinach crop out-of-doors. At Alden- 

 ham we have suffered in common, and no doubt 

 the trouble is attributable to the excessively wet 

 wl nter. Spinach is such a necessary winter vege- 

 table that no pains should be spared to maintain 

 an efficient supply. Where cold frames are avail- 

 able, these, set upon a mild hot-bed, will furnish 

 a supply over a good period. Draw drills 1 fcot 

 apart, and sow the seed thinly. Small sowings 

 should be made at intervals for a succession. 

 Where the soil is not too heavv, in a warm 

 spot under a south wall, make a sowing at once, 

 or as soon as the soil can be properly worked and 

 raked level. The Carter is the best variety for 

 spring cropping or for sowing on mild hot-beds, 

 ine pants have a strong constitution, and de- 

 velop large foliage. Victoria is also a splendid 

 variety and suitable for all seasons. 



Capsicums and Chillies. —Though ftwl 

 cums ; and Chillies are not generally grown; they 

 should be more extensively cultivated, for not 

 only are the plants when in fruit verv d< nratifi 

 subjects, but valuable also from a utilitarian 

 point of view. In such a hot summer as the past, 



their growth may be finished out-of-doors in a 

 warm position, but generally the plants are better 

 grown in 5-inch pots and afforded the protection 

 of a cold frame against adverse weather. The 

 seed should be sown now in pots or pans contain- 

 ing a finely-sifted compost, and germinated in a 

 gentle heat. Immediately the seedlings are large 

 enough to handle put them singly into thumb pots, 

 and place them near to the roof-glass. Select such 

 varieties as Mammoth Long Red, Red Giant, 

 Prince of Wales, and Golden Dawn (the two last- 

 named are the best yellow sorts). Pigmy Black 

 Prince and East India Cayenne are the best varie- 

 ties of Chillies. 



Solanum MELONGENA.— Both the Egg plant 

 and Aubergine are also attractive plants when 

 grown in pots, whilst in some establishments 

 these fruits are in demand for culinary purposes. 

 They provide a pleasing and uncommon dish for 

 exhibition purposes. To grow them successfully 

 the plants require a warm, almost a stove, tem- 

 perature, and liberal feeding. They should never 

 be subjected to a check. The seed should be 

 sown in pans and germinated in heat. Pot 

 the seedlings singly, as soon as they are large 

 enough for transplanting, and kecD them growing 

 actively in a brisk temperature. Syringe the 

 foliage frequently whenever the weather permits, 

 to keep down red spider. For general purposes 

 the Purple Fruited variety of Aubergine will be 

 found the best, being a prolific cropper and good 

 grower. 





Asparagus. — The forcing of Asparagus may 

 be done with comparative ease. Various methods 

 may be adopted, but whichever is selected, it is 

 preferable to lift strong crowns rather than force 

 them on the permanent beds. Whether the roots 

 are placed on mild hot-beds or under the stages 

 of a greenhouse, heat and moisture are the chief 

 requirements, and especially bottom heat. Ex- 

 cellent results may be obtained by placing the 

 crowns in shallow frames on a mild hot-bed ; a 

 succession may be obtained by having two hot- 

 beds, replenishing with fresh crowns at intervals. 

 Place the roots on a very thin laver of soil, cover- 

 ing them with the same small quantity of com- 

 post. Well water the roots after they are set in 

 the beds. Keep the frames close, and syringe 

 with clear water, according to the weather con- 

 ditions; if considered necessary, a little fresh air 

 may be admitted on the leeward side of the frame, 

 closing the lights again early in the afternoon. 

 As growth commences, diluted liquid manure may 

 be given with beneficial results. Place some pro- 

 tective material over the glass when the weather 

 is cold, but remove it whenever the weather turns 

 warmer. Add fresh linings of long, strawy litter 

 and leaves to the frames as the heat declines 

 in the bed, to promote a quick growth. 



FRUITS 



UNDE^ 



-k.4# 



GLASS. 



By E. Harriss, Fruit Foreman, The Royal Gardens, 



Windsor. 



The Orchard House. — All fruit trees in 

 pots or tubs should, if not already undor glass, 

 be placed indoors without delay. Owing to the 

 mild winter the buds are developing very 

 quickly, those of Peaches and Nectarines being 

 on the point of bursting into flower. Before the 

 flowers open, place the plants on their sides and 

 syringe them with an insecticide. Apples, Pears, 

 and Plums should also be treated in the same 

 manner. The Apple trees should be examined 

 carefully for woolly aphis. The most effective 

 way to deal with this pest on small trees is to 

 touch the insects lightly with a small brush satu- 

 rated with methylated spirit. Trees affected with 

 scale should be thoroughly cleansed now, as this 

 pest spreads rapidly during the graving season, 

 and does considerable damage. It is ^ r ood plan 

 to fumigate the house before the trees Bo»?*r and 

 again when the fruits are all set. This treat- 

 ment should keep the plants free from aphis all 

 through the season. Any trees requiring pruning 

 should be attended to at once. 



Queen Pineapples. — Preparations must 

 now be made for repotting and starting 

 the suckers which were rooted last summer. 

 A hot-bed should be prepared in which 

 to plunge them when potted in a shallow 

 house or pit, taking care that the plants 

 are quite near to the glass when plunged. A hot- 

 bei about 4 feet deep, consisting chiefly of Oak or 

 Beech leaves, will, if well made, retain sufficient 



heat to keep the roots active all through the grow- 

 ing season. Build up the bed in layers, and make 

 each layer firm by treading. Be careful to make 

 the bed of an uniform firmness throughout. The 

 compost for potting should be prepared several 

 days before it is needed, and must be warmed 

 through before being used. It should consist 

 chiefly of rich, friable loam, with the fine par- 

 ticles shaken out. To each barrow-load of the 

 loam add one 8-inch potful of £-inch bones and a 

 6-inch potful of soot. A little charcoal should be 

 added to loam which is heavy and deficient in 

 fibre. Before moving the plants, remove two or 

 three of the lower leaves, then tie the remainder 

 together till the plants are plunged in the new 

 hot-bed. Make sure the roots are thoroughly 

 moistened before potting, and carefully " tease " 

 out some of the roots on the outside of the ball 

 with a pointed stick. The strongest plants may 

 be potted into 12-inch pots, and each pot should 

 be carefully and amply drained. The soil should 

 be rammed quite firmly. Special care should be 

 taken not to shake the plants more than can be 

 avoided, as the roots are easily damaged. The 

 plants will not require water for two or three 

 weeks, when the roots should be growing freely 

 in the new soil. They must, however, be fre- 

 quently syringed, and the atmosphere kept moist 

 by damping the bare surfaces in the house at fre- 

 quent intervals. Except on very cold nights, 

 the minimum temperature may be kept at 70°. 

 Take full advantage of the sun's rays during the 

 day, admitting fresh air only on the most favour- 

 able occasions. On very cold nights the roof of 

 the house should be covered with mats or tiffany. 



Charlotte Rothschild and Smooth 

 Cayenne Pines.— The method of cultivating 

 these two varieties of Pineapple practised at 

 Frogmore for many years, was to plant them out 

 in a pit. This system involves less trouble and 

 expense than when pots are employed. The 

 plants develop much more rapidly and the fruits 

 also grow to a larger size than those grown in 

 pots. To obtain fruits all the year round, a pit 

 should be planted in March and another in Sep- 

 tember. Preparations should be made for putting 

 out the plants several days before planting time, 

 so that the soil may become thoroughly warmed. 

 A hot-bed should be made as advised for Queen 

 Pines. On this place a bed of soil about 1 foot 

 deep. Put the plants out about 2 feet apart and 

 keep the pit close and moist till the roots are 

 active. Shade the plants during bright sunshine 

 till they have become established, after which 

 shading should be discontinued. The plants 

 enjoy a high temperature, provided the atmo- 

 sphere is moist. 



THE APIAKY. 



By Chloris. 



Diseases. 



Beekeepers should continue to 

 bring pressure to bear upon the Legislature to 

 pass an Act to assist 

 country of bee diseases. 



in ridding this 

 I believe there is 

 no country of first or second-rate importance, 

 with the exception of Great Britain, that is with- 

 out a law compelling the lazy and indifferent bee- 

 keeper to keep his hives in a hygienic condition. 

 It has been noted by those who have made close 

 enquiries into the working of such legislation that 

 bee diseases may be reduced to a negligible 

 quantity. Any Act would first, naturally, abolish 

 all hives that could not be easily overhauled ; 

 thus we should see an end of the old straw skeps. 

 These may add beauty to the old-world garden, 

 but wo must sacrifice something, and as such 

 hives cannot be properly inspected for the detec- 

 tion of disease in its earliest stages, they should 

 be abolished. Compulsory inspection should be 

 one of the provisions of any Bill on the subject, 

 and the notification cf disease should be made 

 compulsory. Materials, such as wax, in the 

 form of foundation should be inspected for dis- 

 ease, whilst the importation of foreign queens 

 would also require to be dealt with. If such an 

 Act were passed, there is scarcely anv doubt 

 but that the number of beekeepers would greatly 

 increase in this country, for wherever such legis- 

 lation has been adopted beekeeping has increased 

 by leaps and bounds. Thrifty and industrious 

 beekeepers have nothing to lose, but everything 

 to gain by the passing of such a law. There is 

 onsiderable scope for beekeepers in this country, 

 as large quantities of honey are imported yearly 

 into Great Britain and to the value of from 

 £1,000 to £5,000 each month. 



