118 



HE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



[February 24, 1912. 



The Week's Work. 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady Nunbuknholme, 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Pruning Standard Fruit Trees. — If 



the work has not been done already, standard 

 fruit trees should be pruned and cleansed. 

 Worthless trees should be grubbed up and 

 burned, afterwards making the necessary pre- 

 parations for planting fresh trees. Orchard trees 

 should be attended to yearly to keep them in a 

 clean, healthy condition. Once a tree has formed 

 a well-balanced head, very little pruning will be 

 necessary to keep it in a proper condition, for 

 crowding of the branches may result from over- 

 pruning as well as from no pruning at all. When 

 trees are only pruned at intervals of a few years, 

 the mischief is increased each year it is 

 neglected, because the larger the growths when 

 they are removed the greater are the wounds 

 caused by the cut surfaces. It is better to spread 

 the period of the pruning of such trees over two 

 or three years to minimise any risk of a check 

 by removing too many branches at the same 

 time. In pruning, first remove any dead 

 branches, then any that cross each other or are 

 badly placed, cutting out entirely a branch here 

 and there if the heads still appear crowded. 

 When the work is completed, collect the primings 

 and rubbish and burn them. Take advantage of 

 mornings when the ground is hard with frost to 

 cart manure or any other materials collected to- 

 gether from various sources for top-dressings. 

 The soil of old orchards is generally im- 

 poverished, and well-decayed manure is one of 

 the best materials to enrich it : lacking this, 

 basic slag, lime, or any other stimulating sub- 

 stances are valuable. As a rule, trees that are 

 bearing freely fail to make much growth ; they 

 should be given rich top-dressings of a stimulating 



nature. 



Young Trees.— Thin the branches and re- 

 move entirely those that cross each other, allow- 

 ing the shoots to increase and extend upwards 

 and outwards, according to their strength. See 

 that the trees are properly secured to the stakes, 

 as chafing of the bark causes much injury. 



Cob-nuts and Filberts. — The time and 

 method of pruning Nut trees should be largely 

 governed by the condition of the catkins. If early 

 pruning is practised, be careful to leave plenty of 



bearing catkins. March is the best 

 time to prune Cob Nuts and Filberts, 

 and the plants should be grown on single 

 stems to prevent the formation of suckers. 

 Keep the main branches thinned sufficiently 

 to allow the sun and air to reach the 

 centre of the tree : shorten back the leading 

 shoots, and induce the trees to make plenty of 

 twiggy growths, as the Nuts are chiefly borne 

 on such shoots. Nut bushes are often planted 

 in some out-of-the-way corner of the garden, or 

 as windscreens, where they are allowed to be- 

 come crowded with shoots. Even in such cases 

 they well repay for the trouble of annual prun- 

 ing and cleansing of all rubbish, afterwards 

 affording the roots a dressing of short manure 

 or other suitable materials. 



twigs 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



By J. Collier, Gardener to Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., 



Gatton Park, Surrey. 



Bulbophyllum. — Bulbophyllum grandi- 

 florum, B. Reinwardtii, B. lemniscatoides, B. 

 Watsonianum, B. mirum, B. corniculatum, B. 

 saurocephalum, B. macranthum, B. Ericssonii, 

 and B. virescens are pushing forth new roots, and 

 should be afforded fresh rooting materials. Others, 

 including B. anceps, B. barbigerum, B. sana- 

 torium, B. mandibulare, B. auricomum, B. tremu- 

 lum, B. Godsemanum, B. Lobbii, and B. Dearei, 

 are developing their flower-scapes, and these will 

 be better repotted later in the year. Those 

 having a creeping habit are best grown in Teak 

 wood baskets, made longer than wide. Plants 

 of this type that have grown beyond their re- 

 ceptacles may, if the compost is still in a good 

 condition, have their roots carefully trained 

 round and pegged into the compost, thus making 



them more shapely. Plants that need repotting 

 may be divided into portions consisting of two 

 or three pseudo-bulbs with the roots attached, 

 and made into fresh specimens as desired. 

 Plants of a more compact habit of growth should 

 be grown in pans. A suitable compost for 

 Bulbophyllums is equal parts Al fibre and Os- 

 mund a fibre, with a liberal quantity of Sphag- 

 num-moss and some crushed crocks, mixing the 

 materials well together. All these plants suc- 

 ceed best in the East Indian house, as they need 

 a high temperature and plenty of moisture. They 

 grow equally as well either on the stage or sus- 

 pended from the roof-rafters. 



Cirrhopetalum.— Cirrhopetalum pulchrum, 

 C. elegans, C. elegantulum, C. ornatissimum, and 

 C. Coilettii are growing actively at their roots, 

 and should be potted in a similar manner to that 

 recommended for Bulbophyllums. Many plants 

 belonging to the Megaclinium section are sending 

 up their flower-spikes, and their potting should 

 be deferred for the present. 



Catasetum. — Catasetum macrocarpum, C. 

 Cliftonii, and C. tabulare should be repotted, 

 using a compost consisting of good fibrous loam 

 and Al fibre in equal proportions, with a quan- 

 tity of Sphagnum-moss and crushed crocks. 



Masdevallia. — Plants of the stronger- 

 growing kinds of Masdevallia, such as M. 

 Harryana, M. Veitchiana, M. ignea, M. Chel- 

 sonii, and M. amabilis that were not repotted in 

 the autumn may now receive attention in this 

 matter. Any specimens that are root-bound may 

 be shifted into larger pots, but, in doing this, do 

 not disturb the roots more than is unavoidable. 

 Others that have become bare in their centres 

 may be broken up, and, after cutting away all 

 decayed parts, potted afresh in smaller pots. 

 Use a compost comprised of one half its bulk Al 

 fibre, cut up rather roughly, and the remainder 

 half -decayed Oak leaves rubbed through a ^-inch 

 sieve, chopped Sphagnum-moss, some crushed 

 crocks, and silver sand. Fill the pots two-thirds 

 of their depth with rough crocks for drainage. 

 Pot moderately firmly. As soon as the flowers of 

 M. tovarensis are over, and the flower-spikes 

 cut away, the plants will commence to make new 

 growth, at which stage fresh rooting material 

 should be afforded. This Orchid is best grown 

 in a shallow pan in the compost recommended for 

 these plants : the pans should be suspended from 

 the rafters. Masdevallias of the Chimaera sec- 

 tion, such as M. bella, M. Wallisii, M. Chester- 

 tonii, M. Winniana, M. Backhouseana, and M. 

 Carderi, should be grown in Teak-wood baskets 

 and suspended from the roof-rafters. A layer 

 of Fern rhizomes should be placed at the bottom 

 of the basket for drainage purposes, and covered 

 with Sphagnum-moss. Crocks should not be 

 used, as these will hinder the flower-spikes from 

 pushing downwards through the bottom of the 

 basket. Use the same compost recommended for 

 the other species. If a house is not devoted en- 

 tirely to Masdevallias, they should be placed in 

 the warmest and shadiest part of the Odonto- 

 glossum house. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



By E. Harriss, Fruit Foreman, The Royal Gardens, 



Windsor. 



Cucumbers. — Cucumbers that were planted 

 last month are making plenty of growth. The 

 leading shoot should be stopped at about half- 

 way up the trellis, to encourage laterals to de- 

 velop freely. These, in turn, may also be 

 stopped at the third or fourth leaf. Top-dress 

 the roots with fibrous loam and leaf-mould as 

 often as they aopear in quantity on the surface. 

 Let the new soil be brought into the house over- 

 night, to become thoroughly warmed before it is 

 placed on the roots. When the fruits are develop- 

 ing, the plants will need feeding, diluted liquid 

 manure being suitable. This may be supple- 

 mented by an occasional sprinkling of some con- 

 centrated fertiliser. Syringe the foliage twice 

 daily with lukewarm water, and damp the bare 

 surfaces of the house frequently to promote a 

 moist, genial atmosphere. Admit a small amount 

 of fresh air at the top of the house on bright 

 mornings when the temperature reaches 80° ; but 

 the ventilators should be closed by 2 p.m., after 

 syringing the plants. The minimum temperature 

 may be maintained at 70°. Raise another batch 

 of plants for successional fruiting. To avoid loss 

 through damping, sow the seeds singly in small 

 pots, in a compost of loam and leaf-soil in equal 



parts. The soil should be quite warm and suf- 

 ficiently moist so that no water is required till 

 the seeds have germinated. Plunge the pots in 

 a hot-bed, cover them with a sheet of glass, and 

 provide shade until the seedlings are through the 

 soil. 



Late Vines. — Where mealy bug is present in 

 late vineries special measures must be taken to 

 rid the vines of this pest. I alluded in a former 

 calendar to the use of cy&nide for destroying 

 mealy bug on vines. From experiments which we 

 have subsequently made here, I should be far 

 from justified in recommending it for ridding 

 vines of this pest. There is also an element of 

 danger in its effects on the tender shoots. If the 

 rods are subjected to the usual winter cleansing, 

 and the interior of the house thoroughly washed 

 with strong soapy water, there should be little 

 trouble with mealy bug, provided the vines are 

 carefully examined during the early stages of 

 their growth. Carefully remove the soil at the 

 surface of the border for an inch or two deep, 

 and replace it with chopped loam mixed with a 

 liberal quantity of lime rubble, wood ashes, and 

 fertiliser. Carefully examine the borders, and 

 should water be necessary, give the soil a 

 thorough soaking before closing the house. In 

 cold districts late vines may be started at the 

 beginning of March, especially the varieties Gros 

 Colman, Lady Downe's Seedling, and Lady Hutt. 

 Grapes of Lady Hutt variety require a long 

 season to ripen perfectly, and the bunches need to 

 be partially exposed to the sun when the berries 

 are ripening, or they will not be well coloured. 

 Appley Towers and Black Alicante do not require 

 a long season to perfect their fruits, therefore, 

 when"plantinu r these in vineries with the above- 

 named varieties, they should be placed at the 

 cooler end of the house. 



Outside Fruit Borders. — The border- 

 should receive an annual top-dressing of rich ma- 

 terials, to encourage the roots to grow near to the 

 surface. A sprinkling occasionally of artificial 

 manure is also beneficial, and when roots are 

 plentiful this is best applied previous to a heavy 

 rain. Where it has been found necessary to cover 

 the borders in which early vines or Peaches are 

 growing with fermenting matter, they should be 

 examined occasionally, and if the temperature 

 has fallen below what is required, some fresh 

 manure and leaves added and mixed with the 

 old. It will serve no good purpose to leave these 

 materials on the borders when the warm spring 

 weather arrives. Therefore, when the cold season 

 is past, the heating materials should be removed 

 and replaced by a dressing of well-decomposed 



farmyard manure. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G, Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastwell Park, Kent. 



Standard Plants for Summer Beddino. 



-It has become the fashion to employ stanaara 

 plants of all kinds for bedding purposes. UjJ 

 plants are usually worth retaining, and snou 

 be lifted from the beds in autumn, placing tnexi 

 in pots. But there is no difficulty i n . r * isu g 

 quickly a stock of the softer-growing kina> , i 

 their propagation is undertaken in the » ut1 ™r 

 Heliotrope is alwavs a favourite subject : Deo* 

 filled with ordinary dwarf plants in these g* 

 dens, with a few standards interspersed- ^ 

 much admired last season. The B tronger-growi^ 

 Pelargoniums are also suitable for this ^ in p au j 

 training ; varieties such as Clorinda ana 

 Crampel soon form large heads. Jucn T^ 

 Aloysias, Marguerites, and Salvias are oii 

 plants that may be similarly employed, v 

 plants that were lifted and potted in the aU ^ en _ 

 and placed in a cool house should receive a- 

 tion. Dead and weak shoots should be re Tg* r( j 

 pruning the plants back to sound wood. A 

 a small quant it v of fresh compost as a top-a * 

 ing, and grow "the plants for the present m- 

 intermediate house, to start them into ac. 

 growth. It is a mistake to maintain nmen , 

 heat in the plant house, as growth made una 

 such conditions is too tender to wlths H n ? oors 

 cold when the plants are first placed m \j"fr 

 Young plants intended for training as sta> \ y all 

 having been kept growing moderately tree v ^ 

 through the winter, will now require large* P" 







Use a moderately 

 growth is desirable 

 pots of too large a size 



rich compost, as a q u 



Pot firmly, and do not J 

 ■ The side growths shouW 



