

136 



THE GARD ENER S' CHRO NICE E. 



[March 2, 1912. 



The Week's Work. 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady Nunburnholme, 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Outdoor Vines. — Summers such as we ex- 

 perienced last year are very favourable to vines 

 in the open, and the wood this season will be 

 well ripened. Proper pruning and training are 

 necessary to obtain good results, and the vines 

 should be treated in these respects much in the 

 same manner as those under glass. The present 

 is the proper time to undertake their pruning, 

 which needs to be done before the sap com- 

 mences to rise. Shorten the growths to two or 

 three buds, removing later all but the strongest 

 shoot that develops or those without bunches. 

 Keep all other shoots and lateral growths in 

 check. If the pruning is deferred beyond this 

 date much loss of sap and energy will ensue. 

 After the vines are established they will re- 

 quire very little attention beyond pruning and 

 tying of the shoots, with occasional applications 

 of liquid manure. Many varieties of hardy vines 

 develop highly-coloured leaves and are suitable 

 for planting as climbers. 



Figs.— Like the vine, the Fig produces large 

 handsome leaves, and is also an ornamental sub- 

 ject on that account. The plants should be 

 afforded a sheltered position facing south or 

 west; in many districts, and especially in the 

 north, some form of protection is necessary for 

 the plants during severe weather. Much of the 

 success with Figs out-of-doors depends on the 

 soil, which should be of poor quality and dry. A 

 well-drained border having a layer 18 inches or 

 2 feet deep of loam of medium quality mixed 

 with lime rubble, broken bricks and wood ashes 

 is suitable. The roots may, if considered neces- 

 sary, be restricted by forming a trench 3 or 

 4 feet from the wall, and filling it w T ith broken 

 bricks or other similar materials, as they must 

 be kept from light or rich soils. By adopting 

 this plan the trees will produce hard, short 

 jointed wood, that will mature thoroughly and 



{>roduee good crops of Figs annually. Very 

 ittle pruning will be necessary, beyond the re- 

 moval of a branch here and there to prevent 

 overcrowding. A light dressing of bonemeal 

 and one or two applications of liquid manure 

 may be applied to the roots during hot, dry 

 weather as soon as the young Figs are about the 

 size of Walnuts. Where protective material has 

 been applied to the branches, a portion may be 

 removed, or even the whole of it, if there ap- 

 pears to be no danger of cold weather prevail- 

 ing immediately after its removal. Avoid hard 

 pruning in the case of rank-growing trees or 

 gross shoots will be sure to result. Rather re- 

 strict the roots by adopting the method de- 

 scribed above. Tie the branches after the prun- 

 ing is finished, arranging them at 8 or 12 inches 

 apart, placing them close to the wall in cold 

 localities. Brunswick, Brown, Turkey, and 



White Marseilles are the best varieties in the 

 order named for outdoor culture. 



Winter Spraying.— If the spraying of fruit- 

 trees is not completed the specifics must now 

 be used at a considerably reduced strength, 

 or injury will be sure to follow, especially to 

 Pear trees and such varieties of Apples as 

 Duchess of Oldenburg, Irish Peach, Red 

 Astrachan, and others that flower early. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



By E. Harriss, Fruit Foreman, The Royal Gardens, 



Windsor. 



Strawberries in Pots.— When the fruits are 

 well set on the earliest plants of Strawberries 

 the temperature in the house may be raised to 

 60° or 65° and the atmosphere kept moist. Thin 

 the fruits to six or eight on each plant. Securely 

 stake and tie each truss to prevent the stems 

 from breaking : the prunings from outdoor fruit 

 trees make excellent stakes for the purpose. 

 Spray the plants two or three times each day 

 with luke-warm rain-water and frequently damp 

 the bare surfaces in the house. In favour- 

 able weather admit plenty of air during the early 

 part of the day, closing the house again early in 



the afternoon. The pots being filled with roots, 

 liquid manure may be afforded more frequently 

 and at an increased strength. Artificial 

 manure may also be given, but it is not advisable 

 to afford chemical manures of any kind too liber- 

 ally : manure should be withheld altogether when 

 the fruits are ripening. Successional batches of 

 plants should be introduced into heat at regular 

 intervals. It is a good plan to have a large num- 

 ber of plants growing slowly in a cool house. 

 When these are developing their flower spikes 

 the stronger plants may be selected and placed 

 on a shelf near to the roof-glass in a warm house. 

 Make sure that the drainage is in a proper con- 

 dition before bringing the plants indoors. Re- 

 move old and decayed leaves, place the pots on 

 their sides and drench the foliage with a strong 

 solution of soft soap and sulphur. 



Early Pot Vines. — As soon as all the berries 

 are well set. the vines should be relieved of 

 surplus bunches. From six to eight bunches on 

 each vine will be ample for pot plants. The 

 berries may be thinned when they are about the 

 size of Peas. In thinning the bunches of Black 

 Hamburgh variety be careful not to cut out too 

 many of the berries. Although this variety is 

 a free setter, the bunches have a very loose habit, 

 but they will develop into large, shapely speci- 

 mens if the thinning of the berries is done with 

 discretion. In the cases of Foster's Seedling and 

 Madresfield Court the thinning may be done more 

 severely. The roots, being active and the vines 

 growing freely, the minimum temperature may 

 be raised to 70°. During bright, sunny weather 

 the thermometer may be allowed to reach 85° or 

 90°, but the house must be carefully ventilated 

 on these occasions, closing the ventilators early 

 in the afternoon. Keep the atmosphere moist by 

 frequently damping the bare surfaces in the 

 house. It will also be beneficial to the vines to 

 damp the paths with manure water very late in 

 the day. The roots must be liberally supplied 

 with water. Stimulants in the form of liquid 

 manure, soot-water and chemical manure may 

 be given alternately every other day, increasing 

 the strength as the bunches approach maturity. 

 When the berries have stoned, the roots should 

 be covered with a layer of rich, farmyard 

 manure. All lateral growths should be regu- 

 larly pinched, and any shoots which are not re- 

 quired cut out. 



Melons. — When the earliest plants of Melons 

 have covered about 2 feet of trellis with growth 

 they may be stopped. This will induce the side 

 shoots to develop more quickly and hasten the 

 flowering. Pinch the laterals which are showing 

 fruit at the second leaf beyond the fruit. The 

 laterals below the trellis may be stopped at the 

 first leaf. Before pollinating the flowers, wait 

 until three or four flowers are open on each 

 plant or the crop will be irregular. The atmo- 

 sphere must be kept dry and the ventilators 

 opened constantly, affording fresh air more or less 



according to the weather, whilst the plants are 

 flowering. Make fresh sowings as required. At 

 this time of the year ripe fruits may easily be 

 had in 12 weeks from the date of sowing. Hot- 

 beds may be dispensed with for the indoor cul- 

 ture of Melons during the summer months, but 

 the soil must be elevated near to the roof -glass. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



By Edwin Beckett, Gardener to the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, 



Aldenham House, Hertfordshire. 



Seasonable Work. — At the first favour- 

 able opportunity complete any arrears of work, 

 including the preparation of the ground for trans- 

 planting various kinds of vegetables and for seed 

 sowing. Unless the weather is favourable and 

 the ground in a suitable condition, especially in 

 the case of wet, retentive soils, it is far better 

 to delay ground operations for a few days or 

 even longer, than be in too much haste, as 

 there is generally plenty of other work needing 

 attention, such as attending to seedlings raised 

 under glass, preparing hot-beds, and starting 

 the various kinds of vegetables which lend them- 

 selves readily to forcing under glass. 



The Herb Border. — Every well-ordered 

 kitchen garden should include a piece of ground 

 devoted to the growing of herbs, which are 

 generally much in request. A narrow border, 

 in a fairly sheltered position, is suitable for 

 growing herbs of various kinds, which are not 

 only useful but interesting. To have the plants 

 in the best possible condition, it is necessary 



to renovate the border every three or four years. 

 The plants should be lifted in order that the 

 ground may be thoroughly trenched, at the same 

 time working in a good dressing of manure, 

 and, on heavy land, materials such as road-grit, 

 old mortar rubbish, burnt garden refuse, and 

 leaf-soil to lighten the texture. After the 

 ground has been prepared properly, and the sur- 

 face raked neatly, the perennial kinds should 

 be divided and replanted neatly, making the 

 roots very firm in the soil. Any plants which 

 are becoming exhausted should be replaced by 

 new stock propagated either from cuttings or 



seeds. 



Carrots. — Make a sowing of a stump-rooted 

 variety of Carrot in a sheltered part of the gar- 

 den, treating the ground much in the same 

 manner as advised for Turnips. 



Cauliflowers. — Seedlings of such varieties 

 as Magnum Bonum raised in a gentle heat from 

 seed sown early in the present month should be 

 transplanted into boxes. They should be 

 afforded a warm temperature until they have re- 

 covered from the shift, when they should be 

 transferred to cooler houses and elevated near 

 to the roof -glass. Employ a compost containing 

 plenty of sharp grit and a little manure from an 

 old Mushroom bed : water the plants well by 

 means of a can having a fine rose spray. 



Celery. — The main crop of Celery should 

 not be sown until the early part of next month, 

 otherwise the plants may run to flower pre- 

 maturely. For providing late supplies, select a 

 variety that is known to be of a hardy constitu- 

 tion. 



Celeriac — Seed of Celeriac should be sown 

 about the same time as the main crop of Celery 

 and raised in a gentle heat. 



Potatos. — The set or seed tubers for the 

 main crop of Potatos should be ordered from the 

 Nurserymen without delay. When received, they 

 should be placed thinly on trays or shelves in a 

 cool, light, frostproof shed. Sets for successional 

 supplies in frames should be sprouted in a warm 

 house. 



Paths. -It is as important to have the gar- 

 den paths in a good condition as other parts 

 of the garden. The present time affords 

 an excellent opportunity for applying fresh 

 gravel where it is needed, and making tidy the 

 edgings. I am not in favour of Box edgings, 

 but where these are employed the plants may be 

 taken up, divided, and replanted where neces- 

 sary. 



PLANTS UNDER GLASS. 



By Thomas Stevenson, Gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq.i 



Woburn Place, Addlestone, Surrey. 



Propagation.— The work of propagating plants 

 should be continued. Cuttings of Salvia spien- 

 dens and its varieties should be msertea. 

 These plants make bright subjects for grow- 

 ing in the conservatory during the la 

 summer and autumn, and I prefer plants raise 



from cuttings to those propagated from seea, 



e» ... r L , fewer in 



although seedlings are, perhaps, 

 growth. The best variety I noted last autum 

 was "Boule de Feu," the plants being pw 

 ticularly floriferous and of an excellent s&ap*- 

 A sowing should be made of Solanun, im 

 patiens, Celosia, and Statice Suworowii. i 

 Stat ice is an excellent subject for decorative 

 purposes : if the seeds are sown thinly m a d 

 or pan and the seedlings pricked off three p 

 in a ^ inch (48) pot plants may be had in no* 

 quickly. The seedlings must not be left tor i 

 long a period in the seed box or they will no* 

 when they are potted before making many roo > 

 so that the results will be unsatisfactory ^_ 

 grouping. For purposes of grouping the P 

 may be potted singly in 54 pots, in whicn w 

 will produce single spikes of flowers about 

 inches tall. , ts 



Zonal Pelargoniums.— A stock of p ** 

 intended for autumn blooming should be i ra 

 at once, inserting the cuttings in thumb p ^ 

 If stood on a shelf in an intermediate hous^ 

 other w T arm place where there is not too 

 moisture, the cuttings will root very ^^j 

 when they may be removed to a slightlv-n 

 pit for some time before repotting them. 



Winter-blooming Carnations.— ^utt k 

 of Carnations that were rooted a few weeKs s 

 should be ready for potting into 60 size . L r e 

 Employ as potting soil a light, porous xni * de( j 

 of loam, old brick and mortar rubble V ouu 







I 



