





278 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



[April 27, 1912. 



The Week's Work. 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady NunburnholmE 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Cherries. — At this stage, trees of Sweet and 

 Morello Cherry are often seriously damaged by 

 ■aphis, including the black kind, and often-times 

 the mischief is done before the trees are out of 

 blossom. Syringing the trees twice at intervals 

 with Quassia extract or some similar insecticide 

 -a week or so before the flowers open will gener- 

 ally suffice to keep aphis in check. Trees of 

 Sweet Cherry require to be disbudded and 

 stopped as was advised for Apricots, to avoid, 

 •as far as possible, the use of the knife 

 during the winter months. The grub that at- 

 tacks the leaves must also be guarded against, 

 for, no matter how carefully other operations are 

 performed, this pest will soon destroy the crop 

 and damage the foliage of the most vigorous 

 trees. 



Mulching. — If the work of mulching is in 

 arrears, no time should be lost in completing it. 

 Light but moisture-holding materials form the 

 best mulches to apply to newly-planted as well 

 as established fruit trees; but no hard-and-fast 

 rule should be followed, as much will depend 

 upon the nature of the ground, whether it be of 

 a light or heavy texture. Heavy mulchings 

 should be avoided, unless -the soil is warm and 

 dry : those intended to supply food as well as 

 to conserve moisture should be composed of rich, 

 -stimulating materials, and it should be remem- 

 bered that two or three light dressings at inter- 

 vals are preferable to one heavy mulch applied 

 early. 



General Work. — It is too early to estimate 

 what the fruit crops will be, but, judging from 

 appearances, fruits of all kinds will be plentiful 

 if the weather remains favourable. The recent 

 .severe frosts may have caused much injury to 

 •the blossoms in the Midlands and south, but in 

 the north the trees were not sufficiently ad- 

 vanced to be much harmed. The year's results 

 will depend largely upon attention to the most 

 "trifling details at this stage, the chief amongst 

 them being the protection of the blossom from 

 damage by frost and the prevention and spread of 

 insect pests. Aphides especially must be com- 

 bated, for if these pests destroy the early growths, 

 the prospects for another year will be ruined, as 

 secondary shoots rarely ripen satisfactorily. The 

 lioe should be used freely in the fruit quarters 

 on all favourable occasions to keep the surface 

 of the ground well stirred and to destroy weeds. 

 At no other season of the year is so much good 

 done with the hoe as in spring, no matter 

 whether weeds are present or not. 



PLANTS UNDER GLASS. 



•By Thomas Stevenson, Gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq., 



Woburn Place, Addlestone, Surrey. 



Violets. — The hot, dry weather of last 

 -rammer was not favourable to Violets; the 

 plants in many instances grew feebly, and red 

 spider infested them, therefore it is hardly to 

 be expected that the flowers will be as good as 

 usual this season. When the plants have finished 

 flowering no time should be lost in planting suit- 

 able side shoots for stock in their summer quar- 

 ters. It is often advised to plant young Violets in 

 a shaded border, but the best flowers I have ever 

 seen were grown during the summer in an open 

 situation, proving that shade does not matter, 

 provided that the soil is well prepared and the 

 plants receive proper attention. I prefer to plant 

 young side growths rather than older shoots that 

 have flowered, and though the former may not 

 make strong plants so quickly as the latter,* they 

 have the advantage of not being so subject to 

 attacks of red spider. If the plants have been 

 troubled with this pest in the frames they 

 should be dipped in a solution either of soft 

 soap and sulphur or sulphide of potassium at a 

 .strength of ^ ounce in 1 gallon of water. If due 

 attention is paid to spraying the plants and a 

 fair amount of water afforded the roots during 

 <the summer, good results should be obtained, 



even in a hot season. In planting, allow plenty 

 of room between the rows ; a distance of 15 to 

 18 inches apart is not too much space, especially 

 for the single varieties, and this distance permits 

 of stirring the soil with the hoe. 



Achimenes. — Achimenes are not so much in 

 favour as they were in former years; neverthe- 

 less, they are very beautiful plants when in 

 flower. The plants may be had in bloom either 

 early or late, according to the date at which the 

 corms are started into growth. They may be 

 planted as early in February or as late as May ; 

 as the plant-houses are generally crowded with 

 other subjects early in the year, it is convenient 

 to plant now. The corms may be started 

 fairly close together in shallow pans or pots, 

 transferring them to their flowering pots when 

 the shoots nave grown about 2 inches high. The 

 plants will flower well in pots, pans, or baskets, 

 needing very little attention beyond staking and 

 watering. They should be potted in a light com- 

 post ; a mixture of peat, leaf -mould, sand, and a 

 little loam is suitable. During their early stages 

 of growth they should be grown in an inter- 

 mediate or rather higher temperature, but as 

 they come into bloom, a lower temperature, with 

 plenty of air, should be afforded, to prolong the 

 season of blooming. A little shade is necessary 

 at all times, but the plants must be grown near 

 to the roof glass, in order that they may grow 

 stocky. When they are well rooted in their 

 flowering pots, manure water may be afforded in 

 considerable quantities. Some of the choicer 

 varieties are Mauve Queen, Rose Queen, Firefly, 

 Mme. A. Verschaffelt, Ambrose Verschaffelt, 

 and longiflora major, rosea and alba. 



Calad i um.— Plants of Caladium that were 

 started as advised in a previous calendar should 

 now be finally potted. If large plants are re- 

 quired, two or three specimens may be placed to- 

 gether in one pot. It is very necessary to exer- 

 cise care in watering for some time after they are 

 potted, and the plants must be shaded during 

 periods of bright sunshine. Though Caladiums 

 require warm, moist conditions, they should not 

 be syringed overhead too frequently, especially if 

 the water contains lime, as that will be deposited 

 on the foliage, but the spaces between the pots 

 may be syringed often. If the ventilators are 

 opened, close them again with a rising tempera- 

 ture in the afternoon. 



Seedlings. — Seedlings of stove and green- 

 house plants must not be neglected. They should 

 be pricked off as soon as they are big enough 

 to handle, so that they may grow without re- 

 ceiving any undue check. Many plants that 

 were raised in a stove temperature may, after 

 this date, be grown in a rather cooler house ; 

 heated pits, where they are available, are 

 quite suitable for seedlings of many warm-house 

 subjects. 



Tuberous-rooted Begonias. — Many plants 

 of tuberous-rooted Begonias are sufficientlv 

 forward to be placed in their flowering pots. If 

 this is done before the roots are in the least 

 degree pot-bound the plants will grow with extra 

 freedom. As a rooting medium, provide a fairly 

 retentive, though porous, compost. Pot fairly 

 firmly, as the foliage does not grow gross when 

 the soil is firm. The largest tubers may be 

 grown in pots having a diameter of 8^ inches 

 (24* s) or 9^ inches (16' s) ; smaller tubers from one 

 to two years old may be grown in 6-inch pots 

 (32' s). Plants in these smaller pots are especially 

 valuable for decorative purposes in the plant 

 houses. If a house could be devoted to their 

 culture, it would be an advantage, but, failing 

 this, a good light pit will be suitable for a month 

 or two. Endeavour to grow the plant sturdy, 

 affording a little shade during the hottest part 

 of the day. Seedling Begonias should be kept 

 growing freely, transplanting them as advised in 

 a previous calendar in boxes, or they may be 

 planted out in a frame at a distance of 4 inches 

 apart. When grown in frames, they may be 

 transferred direct to the beds early in June, or 

 potted in 4^-inch pots (48 , s). They will do best 

 in the beds, where they will not only flower more 

 freely, but develop finer corms than in pots. 



Bouvardia. — This winter-flowering plant may 

 be propagated now, either from cuttings obtained 

 from specimens that were cut down some time 

 ago, or from portions of the roots. The latter 

 should be cut into portions an inch or two in 

 length, planting the portions in sand or very light 



soil. Of the two systems, the latter gives th% 

 better result, the plants being stronger and freer 

 in growth. Root cuttings will need to be rooted 

 in a brisk bottom heat. They may be potted 

 singly, or three may be placed in the same pot as 

 soon as they have made top growth about 2 or 3 

 inches high. If three specimens are placed in 

 one receptacle the leading shoots should be 

 pinched on one or two occasions, to induce a 

 bushy habit of growth. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G, Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastwell Park, Kent. 



Transplanted shrubs.— The long period of 

 wet weather experienced at the time of planting 

 has been succeeded by several weeks of drought, 

 accompanied by east winds. In consequence, the 

 ground is dry, and very hard on the surface, with 

 cracks, especially where the soil is of a clayey 

 nature. Under these conditions, recently-planted 

 shrubs are liable to suffer damage from drought; 

 therefore, see that the roots are well supplied 

 with moisture. The surface of the ground should 

 be forked over lightly, and the large clods of earth 

 broken as finely as possible, carefully removin 

 the roots of perennial weeds. If the groun 

 is very dry, water must be afforded the 

 roots, but timely attention in the matters of 

 spraying and mulching is of greater benefit than 

 copious root-waterings, the ground being very 

 cold. A light mulch is of the greatest benefit 

 in conserving the moisture about the roots, and 

 may consist of leaf -mould, old potting soil, or 

 spent manure from an old Mushroom bed. If 

 neither of these materials is available, grass clip- 

 pings from the lawns may be used, putting a 

 light layer of the material around the base of 

 each newly -planted tree and shrub. The soil 

 should be stirred with the flat hoe before the 

 mulch is applied, and this tool should be used 

 constantly in the spaces between the plants. 



Hollies.— The next few weeks is usually con- 

 sidered the most suitable time for transplanting 

 Hollies, and preparations for the work should be 

 made without delay. Everything should be in 

 readiness before the roots of the trees are ex- 

 posed, as the plants are liable to a check if their 

 roots become dried, causing them to become 

 stunted in growth. Large specimens may be 

 shifted without much risk, provided that care is 

 taken to preserve a large mass of soil about the 

 roots. Remove the trees carefully to their fresh 

 stations, make the soil thoroughly firm around the 

 ball of soil and roots, afford a copious watering 

 and finally make the surface of the soil level. 

 After the planting is completed, place a muicn 

 over the roots, as recommended above. Constant 

 attention will be necessary during times of dry 

 weather, spraying the trees during the afternoons 

 of hot days. Secure carefully to stakes all re- 

 cently transplanted trees and shrubs, and la Dei 

 them, placing the tallies in position where tney 

 may be seen easily. The Stratford imperishable 

 label is one of the best obtainable for labeling 

 specimen trees and shrubs. 



The Hardy Fernery.— The young fronds are 

 developing fast, therefore old and withered leaves 

 should be removed and the fernery made tidy ana 

 attractive for the summer. Hardy ferneries often 

 exist in the vicinity of large trees, which leaa xo 

 the accumulation of dead sticks arid otnt 

 rubbish. Do not cut off the old fronds oi 

 evergreen kinds until the young leaves nav 

 developed properly. This is done sometimes su 

 that the work of tidying the fernery ^ay 

 finished at one operation, but it will be notice 

 that Ferns growing wild appear to do best *n 

 well protected by the old fronds. A top-u- - 

 ing of leaf-mould should be afforded as the jun 

 proceeds. This material will be a great help ^ 

 the new roots, and give the fernery a clean a 

 tidv appearance. In districts where tree r 

 withstand the cold of winter, these shouia 

 employed, as they give an additional cnarn 

 the fernery : in colder parts the h* rdie ' J^ £ 

 such as Dicksonia antarctica, maybe g ^ 



pots or tubs and plunged o^^^Jnever 

 summer and autumn. Plunged plants rnusw ^ 

 be allowed to suffer from want of water .- 

 roots, and have the stems syringed daily a ^ 

 hot weather. If the plants have been u ^ 

 same tubs for several years, an ™ c **™ n *L ve \ p* 

 ing with liquid manure will assist the ae ^ 

 ment of the young fronds and cause tnem 

 a deep-green colour. 



