33 i 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



[May 18, 1912. 



aee "how much knowledge must have gone to the 

 making of this book, and what pains Mr. Dykes 

 has taken to describe the different species accur- 

 ately and to name tbem rightly. This kind of 

 accuracy is as much needed for a popular as for 

 a scientific work, since a gardener cannot be 

 sure of getting the plant he wants unless he 

 knows its name. 



The book deals with different Irises in their 

 several groups. There are also chapters on 

 Irises for the rock-garden and Irises for the 

 herbaceous border, and a very useful calendar 

 giving both the flowering time and the best 

 season for planting. The latter information will 

 be of great value to the ordinary gardener, who 

 is apt to assume that autumn and early spring 

 are the best times for moving any plants. Mr. 

 Dykes tells him that he should plant Iris cristata 

 in June, just after the flowers have faded. Many 

 gardeners have probably failed with the beau- 

 tiful little Iris gracilipes because they have 

 planted it in autumn when it is at rest, and can 

 make no root action for many months. Like Iris 

 cristata it should be disturbed only at a time 

 when its roots will instantly get a grip of the 

 ground, and when it will be firmly established 

 before the winter comes. But this applies to 

 nearly all Irises which have permanent roots. 

 Even German Irises, easily grown as they are, 

 thrive best if they are moved in summer after 

 flowering, so that they have time to establish 

 themselves before winter, and the bulbous Irises 

 of the Juno group often fail because they are 

 planted late with their thick roots either badly 

 damaged or destroyed altogether. The impor- 

 tant point with them, as with so many Lilies, is 

 to get good bulbs to start with; then in most 

 cases success is sure with a light, rich, well- 



drained soil and a sunny position. 



But even Mr. Dykes cannot tell us how to 

 grow Oncocyclus Irises. He recommends that 

 they should be got early before they start into 

 growth, and then sent to a cold storage estab- 

 lishment where they can be retarded until the 

 end of February. Mr. Dykes has made the ex- 

 periment himself with some success, but ordinary 

 gardeners will probably prefer to grow Iris 

 germanica. On the germanica section Mr. 

 Dykes has a very useful chapter, mentioning 

 the best varieties in each class, including the 

 newest introductions. He points out that 

 German Irises, easy and common as they are, 

 are often not treated as well as they deserve. 

 They throw out long roots just under the soil, 

 and" resent disturbance of these. The roots 

 must have room and time to grow strong if the 

 plants are to keep free of disease, and the 

 German Iris therefore should not be crowded in 

 the border with all kinds of other plants. 



There is a chapter on Irises that seldom flower, 

 containing a great deal of out-of-the-way in- 

 formation. But to the ordinary gardener this 

 chapter will be of negative rather than of 

 positive interest. He will learn from it to be 

 on his guard against I. humilis, which remains 

 flowerless year after year, and which, when at 

 last it does bloom, nas " dull-coloured flowers 

 produced so low down as actually to touch the 

 ground." In other cases, as for example in the 

 case of I. ruthenica, it is all important to get a 

 free -flowering form. Indeed, Mr. Dykes advises 

 us always, if possible, to choose our Irises, 

 not from catalogues, but from plants in flower, 

 at least when, as in so many cases, the species 

 is variable. I. sibirica, for instance, is a 

 familiar plant, but seedlings differ in quality 

 almost as much as human beings. 



I. tingitana, perhaps the most beautiful 

 of all bulbous Irises, is another very shy 

 bloomer. No doubt it grows, in its native 

 Africa, in very poor soil, but Mr. Dykes advises 

 that in our colder climate it should be richly 

 nourished, even recommending well rotted 

 manure an inch or two below the bulbs. Plants 

 are like human beings ; their diet should vary 

 with climate, and if they are starved in the 

 matter of sun they should not also be starved in 

 the matter of food. Probably no southern 

 bulbous Iris likes poor soil in England. Even 

 the Spanish Iris soon deteriorates if it is not 

 well treated. 



The book, considering its low price, is well pro- 

 duced, and the coloured illustrations from photo- 

 graphs are very fair, but we wish they were 

 more securelv fastened. That, however, is the 

 only complaint we have to make against a book 

 which even the expert can hardly read without 

 learning a great deal. A. Glutton Brock, 



*> The Week" s Work. ^ 



THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 



By F. Jordan, Gardener to Lady Nunburnholme, 



Warter Priory, Yorkshire. 



Fias.— If the work has not been done already, 

 no time should be lost in securing the shoots of 

 Fig trees to the wall. Wood made last year is 

 hard and well ripened, the trees having been 

 favoured with a mild winter. With fair summer 

 weather, provided that careful attention is 

 afforded the trees, ripe Figs may be ex- 

 pected next September. Tie in the branches 

 thinly, and remove blind, pointed shoots, or cut 

 them back to dormant buds if growth is required 

 for extension. Fig trees on walls should never 

 be pinched, as the secondary growths will not 

 ripen before the winter arrives. Mulch and 

 water occasionally trees that promise a good 

 crop of fruit, but fruitless trees should neither 

 be mulched nor watered, as a warm, dry condi- 

 tion at the roots will favour the production of 

 short, spur-like shoots, which will ripen properly 

 in an ordinary summer, and pass through the win- 

 ter without injury from cold. 



Pears.— Pear trees have blossomed profusely, 

 and a plentiful crop may be expected. Several 

 enemies attack the Pear at this season, chief 

 among them being the Pear midge and the Pear 

 slug. The former deposits its eggs upon the 

 blossoms, causing the fruits to fall to the ground 

 later. Such fruits should be gathered and burnt ; 

 better still, pick off all the deformed fruits before 

 they fall and burn them. Where the Pear midge 

 has given trouble in previous seasons, remove the 

 surface soil, and apply kainit, also spray the 

 trees during the winter with a suitable insecti- 

 cide. Very little can be done during the growing 

 season to combat the pest besides picking up the 

 fruits which contain the caterpillars, or remov- 

 ing infested fruits from the trees by hand. The 

 Pear slug is also a destructive pest, and trees 

 badly infested are soon stripped of the leaves, 

 whilst the fruits fall to the ground. The female 

 insect lays her eggs during the next few weeks. 

 Dust the trees well two or three times with quick- 

 lime, or syringe them with a suitable summer 

 wash. If the Pear slug is very numerous, the 

 surface soil beneath the trees should be removed 

 during the winter and burnt, afterwards applying 

 soil f umigant and fresh soil. 



General Remarks. — I would again draw at- 

 tention to the necessity of watering recently- 

 planted trees, for they are sure to suffer injury 

 if neglected in this matter, especially on light 

 soils. Any trees that have become loosened in 

 the soil by strong winds should be made firm 

 and supported with strong stakes if necessary. 

 Use the hoe frequently during fine weather to 

 keep down weeds, and conserve the moisture in 

 the soil. Continue to protect, for the present, 

 the trees growing on south walls, and on warm 

 mornings thoroughly wash the foliage with water 

 from the garden engine. Remove suckers that 

 appear in the middle of Raspberry rows or 

 around fruit trees. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G. Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastwell Park, Kent. 



Tub-gardening. — In many establishments 

 numbers of plants are grown in tubs for furnish- 

 ing terraces, balconies, verandahs, or broad 

 flights of steps, and there are few gardens where 

 such plants, when well grown, would not be an 

 additional attraction during the summer months. 

 A great variety of tubs is catalogued by the 

 sundriesmen, but ordinary petroleum barrels, 

 sawn in half, are suitable, and not so expensive 

 as those made specially for the purpose. The 

 barrels, which last for many years, should be 

 well burnt out, and have holes bored at the 

 bottom for drainage. They should be coated 

 with paint on the outsides ; a quiet, dark green 

 being a suitable colour. There is an almost un- 

 limited choice in the variety of plants suitable 

 for this method of culture, and, as many of them 

 will occupy the same tub for a number of yean, 

 a specially good compost should be provided. 

 Certain plants may require a special soil, but 

 the majority may be planted in a mixture of two 



parts rich loam and one part each of leaf-mould 

 and rotted dung, adding sand, to ensure porosity. 

 The soil should be mixed thoroughly, and used 

 in a moderately dry condition, so that it can be 

 well rammed when the subjects are planted. 

 Plants that will occupy the tub for several yean 

 should not receive the full amount of soil at the 

 start; subsequent top-dressings will furnish the 

 plants with all they need, and obviate the danger 

 of the compost becoming sour. Hydrangea hor- 

 tensis is a favourite subject for tub culture, and, 

 when top-dressed and fed as occasion requires, 

 thrives and makes a large specimen in its 

 original tub. Plants in these gardens that are 

 between 5 and 6 feet high and as much through, 

 have been in the same tubs for many years. 

 They are housed in the late autumn before the 

 frost injures the growths, kept on the dry side 

 all the winter, and allowed to start into growth 

 naturally in spring, without fire-heat. Weak and 

 immature shoots are cut away, and the plants 

 afforded a top-dressing of loam and dung in the 

 spring. They are now ready to be placed in 

 their permanent quarters, being full of buds, 

 which are already expanding. Pelargoniums, 

 both the Zonal and Ivy-leaved varieties, are 

 splendid subjects for growing in tubs where 

 bright colours are desired, the pink and scarlet 

 being especially effective. Agapanthus umbel- 

 latus and its white variety are superb subjects 

 for growing in tubs. They flower best when 

 well established, and the tubs crammed with 

 roots. If plenty of liquid stimulants are afforded 

 when the flower-spikes are developing the plants 

 will remain in a healthy condition for many 

 years in the same tubs. Marguerites grow 

 beautifully, and make huge clumps. When 

 seen against a dark background, such as a \ew 

 hedge the flowers have a charming effect. 

 Fuchsias are extremely graceful subjects for tub 

 gardening, but should be well hardened before 

 they are exposed out-of-doors, or the tender foli- 

 age will be liable to injury. Fuchsias established 

 in tubs are best allowed to start naturally like 

 Hydrangeas. The scented-leaved Geraniums are 

 eminently suitable for this system of gardening, 

 also Lippia citriodora, the lemon-scented \ er- 

 bena, Calceolaria amplexicaulis, Lilies, Sweet 

 Peas, Orange trees, Myrtles, Cordyhne indivisa, 

 Phormium tenax, P. t. variegata, Palms, luccas. 

 Agaves and Tree Ferns. Plants in tubs must 

 not be left to take care of themselves. They 

 must be afforded stimulants regularly and also 

 plenty of water when they are established. 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



By J. Collier, Gardener to Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., 



Gatton Park, Surrey. 



East Indian House. -Such plants as An- 

 graecums, Aerides, and Saccolabiums are | de- 

 veloping numerous aerial roots, and should M 

 afforded a moist, tropical atmosphere, but ligni, 

 and fresh air must be admitted with discretion, 

 or the foliage may become spotted and unhealing 

 A moderate supply of water only should be 

 afforded the roots, but not more than is sum 

 cient to keep the surface layer of Sphagnum- 

 moss in a healthy, growing condition, borne o 

 the plants are sending forth their flower-smkM , 

 weakly specimens that have lost many ot tnei 

 bottom leaves should not be allowed to no*er 

 until they have regained more vigour. 



Angihecum. - Many of the dwarf - growing 



kinds of Angraecum, such «>•>";„«' 

 Kotschyi, A. arcuatum, A. Leonis, A. citratu , 

 A. f astuosum, the sweet little A hyaloides, ana 

 others of this class, will soon be s ta rtmg w j 

 growth, and plants that require repotting snu 

 receive attention. A compost consisting oieq 

 parts Al fibre, cut up rather short, lea f-mouia, 

 and Sphagnum-moss, should be «»' ™ im . 

 surfacing of clean picked heads of Sphagn J 

 moss. These plants are best grown^ co 

 and most shady part of the East Indian house 

 Cypripedium. - Cypripefliums gr owing rf 



the East Indian house should r ^ el T e P^'w 

 water at the roots, and a light spraying °"™ w 

 on bright days. Care must be taken tM t ^ 

 is not allowed to remain in the axub ^ 



leaves, or the young growths ot sucn *p ^ 



C. lavigatum, C. Rothschildianum, U © 

 and C. Lowii will rot at their bases. 



Calanthe. 



The deciduous C^f th £ 

 now in various stages of g r0WT,n > root . 



plants that are unfolding their leaves a ^ 

 ing freely may be allowed more water 



