Mat 18, 1912.] 



THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



335 



roots, increasing the supply gradually as the 

 plants make further progress. Care must still 

 be exercised in watering specimens that are not 

 far advanced in growth. The evergreen species 

 of Calanthes, such as C. Masuca and C. veratri- 

 folia, are coming into flower, and should not be 

 too liberally supplied with water at the roots, or 

 the flowers may become spotted. After passing 

 out of bloom, and when commencing to make new 

 growth, the plants should receive attention as to 

 potting. Rather large pots should be used, and 

 they should be filled one-third of their depth 

 with clean crocks for drainage purposes. The 

 compost should consist of equal parts rich fibrous 

 loam and Osmunda fibre, cut up rather short, 

 with a suitable quantity of leaf -mould, crushed 

 crocks, and silver sand. Pot moderately firm, 

 and provide a good space below the rim of the 

 pot for holding water, as the plants require 

 copious supplies of moisture at the roots through- 

 out the year. 



Cattleya. — Plants of Cattleya Lawrenceana 

 and C. Schroderse are passing out of flower, and 

 should be subjected to a short season of rest. 

 They should be placed in the coolest part of the 

 house, and be kept rather dry at the roots. As 

 soon as growth commences afresh, they should be 

 repotted or top-dressed as is found to be neces- 

 sary. Any plants of C. Mendelii and C. Mossiae 

 that have failed to produce flower -sheaths may 

 be potted at this season. The flower-spikes 

 should be removed from weakly specimens in 

 order to throw all the energies of the plants into 

 the growth. Plants of the autumn-flowering C. 

 labiata, C. gigas, C. Gaskelliana, C. Bowringi- 

 ana, C. Dowiana and its variety aurea, are de- 

 veloping fresh growth, and should be placed in 

 the lightest and warmest part of the house : 

 allow the compost to become dry before water- 

 ing. When the flower-sheaths are seen to 

 be developing in the young growths, the quantity 

 of water afforded the roots may be increased 

 slightly. 



THE KITCHEN GAEDEN. 



By Edwin Beckett, Gardener to the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, 



Aldenham House, Hertfordshire. 



Maize. — Green Corn is not generally culti- 

 vated in gardens in England as a vegetable, 

 although it is considered by many a great deli- 

 cacy. To obtain the best results, a little extra 

 care is necessary with the young plants. I pre- 

 fer to sow the seed in pots, and to transplant the 

 seedlings singly when of a suitable size into 

 large 60 pots. The young plants need to be 

 watered carefully. They should be planted out 

 at the end of this month, or early in June, grow- 

 ing the plants in the meantime in a cold frame. 

 Well-grown plants should be set out at a distance 

 not nearer than 2 feet apart, and a space of 

 3 feet should be allowed between the rows. Keep 

 the surface soil loosened during the growing sea- 

 son, and afford water copiously during hot 

 weather. 



HOEING.- 



stant^ stirring of the 

 growing crops in the 

 to stimulate growth, 

 soil, more especially 



Hoeing is of far more importance 

 in cultivation than most persons imagine. Con- 

 soil amongst the various 

 kitchen garden does more 

 either on heavy or light 

 during times of drought, 

 than any other means, ensuring the conservation 

 of moisture in the soil. Both the draw and 

 Dutch hoes are valuable implements, the former 

 being best for the coarser growing kinds of vege- 

 table, and the latter for use between rows of 

 seedlings. 



Mulching. — The application of mulches of 

 some kind or another to the various kinds of 

 vegetables is also of the utmost importance and, 

 wherever possible, their use should be largely 

 extended. Mulches not only act as stimulants, 



t also conserve the moisture in the soil, 

 being equalfy beneficial on all kinds of soil. For 

 strong-growing crops, such as Peas, Beans of 

 various kinds, Cauliflowers and Globe Artichokes, 

 half-decayed stable manure, or even long litter, 

 is perhaps preferable to anything else, ^ 

 Unions, Carrots, Beets and similar vegetables 

 manure from a spent hot-bed, or that which has 

 been used for Mushroom growing provides ex- 

 cellent material. On heavy soils, half-decayed 

 leaf-mould i s equally, valuable. 



Watering — To obtain the best results in the 

 culture of vegetables, it is imperative that a 

 good supply of water is available. Wherever 

 practicable, means should be taken to have a 



but 



pool, wherein a good supply of water can be 

 stored, and thus become warmed before it is 

 applied to the plants. The best time for apply- 

 ing moisture, either to the roots or overhead, 

 is during the late afternoon or evening. 



Turnips. — Frequent sowing of Turnips should 

 be made in an open site in the garden during, 

 if possible, showery weather. Snowball is an 

 excellent variety for sowing at this season, also 

 Red Globe, which, perhaps, withstands the 

 effects of hot weather better than any other 

 variety that I am acquainted with. Where 

 birds are troublesome, means must be taken to 

 protect the seeds from them. Perhaps the 

 easiest and most successful plan is to scatter 

 freshly-mown short grass over the surface of the 

 seed -bed. This will not only protect the seeds 

 from the birds, but materially assist in their 

 germination, and favour the growth of the plants 

 when in a young state. Attend to the thinning 

 out of previous sowings, and apply dressings of 

 fresh soot and wood ashes during the early 

 mornings whilst the ^Liits are wet with dew. 



PLANTS UNDER GLASS. 



By Thomas Stevenson, Gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq. § 



Woburn Place, Addlestone, Surrey. 



Coleus. — Coleuses are very useful subjects to 

 grow where a large quantity of plants are re- 

 quired for furnishing either in the dwelling-house 

 or conservatory. They are easily raised from 

 seed, but seedlings are not usually so bright and 

 effective as some of the named varieties which 

 require to be propagated annually from cuttings. 

 Hart's Conqueror, Vesuvius, Mrs. H. B. May, 

 Beckwith's Gem, Hendersonii, Conrad Rosenthal, 

 and Cordelia are all excellent varieties. The last- 

 named is one of the best for decorative purposes, 

 though it is not suitable for growing as specimen 



plants. In order to obtain the best results, it 

 needs to be grown in plenty of heat and moisture, 

 exposed to full sunshine. Plants grown in M 48 " 

 ots attain a height of about 2 feet, producing a 

 fine display of large leaves almost orange-scarlet 

 in colour. To maintain a succession of small 

 plants, they should be propagated at intervals all 

 through the summer, potting on the older speci- 

 mens till they are of a desired size. If afforded 

 a moderate amount of air during their later stages 

 of growth, they will be hardy enough to with- 

 stand the trying conditions when employed for 

 decorative purposes. 



Primulas. — The present is a suitable date 

 for sowing various kinds of greenhouse Primulas. 

 The old type of P. sinensis, though still grown in 

 large quantities, is, in many instances, being 

 superseded by smaller-flowered kinds, which are 

 better adapted for decorative purposes, though I 

 doubt if they last better in the conservatory. 

 The stellata type provides plants in many beau- 

 tiful shades of colour. The flowers attain to a 

 height of 15 to 18 inches, and are extremely use- 

 ful and effective for decorative purposes. P. 

 obconica, which is an easy plant to cultivate, 

 may now be had in colours ranging from pure 

 white to rosy-crimson. As a continuous bloomer 

 the plant is difficult to beat, but unfortunately 

 it causes skin trouble to many persons, and for 

 this reason it is not popular in all gardens. ^ P. 

 malacoides is a species of recent introduction. 

 This graceful plant should be cultivated in fairly 

 small pots, certainly not larger than 4i-inch 

 (48's), which may be placed in small vases for de- 

 corative purposes in the dwelling house. P. kew- 

 ensis has bright-yellow flowers and mealy foliage, 

 providing a pleasing change from those de- 

 scribed above ; the blossoms are sweetly scented. 

 Seeds of all these Primulas should be sown in 

 well-crocked, shallow pans, filled with a 

 light, sandy compost. They should be germi- 

 nated in a moderately warm house, covering the 

 pans with glass and brown paper to prevent the 

 soil from becoming unduly dry, a condition which 

 prolongs the process of germination in all 



Primulas. 

 Cinerarias.— If early batches of greenhouse 



Cinerarias are required, the seed should now be 

 sown. In addition to the old, large-flowered 

 florists' varieties, some have star-shaped and 

 others Cactus flowers, and all are useful plants 

 for conservatory decoration. Those of the stel- 

 lata type form fairly large plants, varying fro^ 

 2 feet to 3 feet 6 inches in height, but those of 

 the Cactus type are of a much dwarfer habit, 

 being only about 18 inches tall. The seed should 



be sown as advised for Primulas, but rather 

 cooler temperature should be provided for 

 Cinerarias, as the plants germinate much quicker. 

 I prefer to raise them in a cool-house or pit, the 

 seedlings being much more sturdy when propa- 

 gated without much heat. 



Humea eleqans. — This decorative plant 

 may be raised from seed sown at about this date. 

 To obtain the best results, it is advisable to grow 

 this plant steadily under cool conditions. Sow 

 the seed in pots and pans, as directed for Primu- 

 las, affording a little heat at the outset ; im- 

 mediately the young plants are established in 

 small 3-inch pots (60s) they should be allowed a 

 cool treatment. 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS. 



By E. Harriss, Fruit Foreman, The Royal Gardens, 



Windsor, 



Cucumbers. — Plants carrying full crops oi 

 fruit should be fed liberally with liquid manure 

 and artificial fertiliser, sprinkling the latter 

 lightly over the surface of the bed just previous 

 to watering. A top-dressing should be placed 

 over the roots as soon as they appear on the 

 surface in quantity. A mixture of loam and 

 well-decomposed horse manure is suitable for the 

 purpose. Attend carefully to the stopping and 

 tying of the shoots, which may be thinned more 

 liberally now than formerly. Open the ventila- 

 tors at the top of the house a little in the fore- 

 noon, but close them again early in the afternoon, 

 after syringing the plants and damping the walls 

 and paths. Should spot disease appear on the 



foliage, cut off the affected leaves and burn 

 them. Discontinue syringing, but maintain a 

 moist atmosphere by damping the bare spaces. 

 During very hot weather it is a good plan to 

 afford the plants some slight protection from the 

 sun's rays. Raise another batch of plants in 

 readiness to replace the older ones when they 

 are worn out. It is not a good practice to retain 

 the old plants for too long a time ; when old they 

 require much attention, and the fruits they pro- 

 duce are tough and bitter. During the summer 



months excellent crops of Cucumbers may be 

 grown in cold frames. The plants will require 

 a moderately warm hot-bed ; plenty of well- 

 rotted leaves should be placed on the surface of 

 the hot-bed for the roote to enter. Set the plants 

 in mounds composed of loam and leaf-mould in 

 equal parts. One plant will be sufficient for 

 each light. Afford plenty of moisture both at 

 the roots and in the atmosphere, and close the 

 pit early in the afternoon, thus giving the plants 

 the full benefit of the solar heat. Attend regu- 

 larly to the stopping and thinning of the growths 

 and remove exhausted leaves. Occasional light 

 fumigations will keep the plants free from aphis. 



Planting Young Vines. — I do not gener- 

 ally recommend the planting of vines raised from 

 eyes rooted early in the same year, but if it is 

 intended to renew a house of early vines, and 

 the Grapes may be cut from the old canes early 

 in June, then there will be an advantage to plant 

 these young canes. The old vines will furnish a 

 crop and the young ones will become established 

 in the same year. But this method will involve 

 a considerable amount of labour at the time when 

 work is pressing in all departments. The soil 

 and all necessary ingredients should be got in 

 readiness, so that the work may be facilitated 

 when the time for planting arrives. Do not allow 

 the young plants to become pot-bound, but shift 

 them into larger pots if necessary. 



Treatment of Youno Vines. 



were planted this season must be given 

 every encouragement to grow freely. Keep the 

 atmosphere humid, and admit plenty of air in the 

 forenoon during favourable weather, but avoid 

 cold draughts. Syringe the foiiarge with tepid 

 rain-water early in the morning and again at 

 closing time, which should not be later than 

 3 p.m. Lightly stir the surface of the border to 

 admit warmth and air to the roots. Later on a 

 mulch of some light dung spread over the roots 

 will be beneficial. Use fire-heat only at night- 

 time or during cold and wet weather. Even on 

 these occasions it must not be used to excess. 

 Stop the side shoots at the second or third leaf 

 and tie them to the trellis. Pinch the points of 

 the leaders when they have reached to one-third 

 the length of the trellis. ( Guard against over- 

 cropping young vines which have been planted 

 in recent years, even though they may be stron* 

 and healtty. 



—Vines which 

 must be 



