Junk 8, 1912.] 



THE GARDENERS CHRONICLE. 



375 



time to shift them into larger pots. They should 

 be taken out without unduly disturbing the ball, 

 placed in larger pots, and the space around should 

 be filled with the compost mentioned above. 



ODONTOQLOSSUM CITROSMUM. 



Plants of 



this species should, as they pass out of flower, re- 

 ceive attention at the roots. If the compost they 

 are growing in is found to be in a good condition, 

 and there is sufficient room in the pot for the 

 present season's growth, a little of the old pot- 

 ting materials should be removed from the sur- 

 face by moans of a pointed stick and replaced by 

 fresh compost. Plants growing in exhausted soil 

 should be taken out of their pots and repotted. 

 Use a compost consisting of equal parts of 

 Osmunda fibre and Al fibre chopped up rather 

 short, with chopped Sphagnum-moss, a little 

 silver sand and some crushed crocks added. The 

 flowers of this species are borne on pendulous 

 spikes, and for this reason the plants are best 

 grown in shallow pans suspended from the roof 

 rafters of the intermediate house. The pan 

 should be filled to one-third its depth with clean 

 crocks for drainage purposes, placing a few pieces 

 of Fern rhizomes on the top. The plants should 

 be potted rather firmly. Water should be applied 

 vary sparingly until the new roots have grown 

 wefl in the new compost, but the surface of the 

 soil should be kept moist by overhead sprayings. 

 Miltonia.— Plants of Miltonia vexill«ria and 

 its varieties should, as they pass out of flower, be 

 allowed a short period of rest. The cool Odonto- 

 glossum house well suit their requirements until 

 the commencement of the autumn. Miltonias 

 such as M. Bleuana, M. Endresii, M. vexillana 

 Leopoldii, and others should, as they commence 

 to form their new growths, be repotted if it is 

 found necessary. These are surface-rooting 

 plants, and should be afforded liberal pot room. 

 A mixture of two parts Al fibre, one part 

 chopped Sphagnum-moss, and one part half-de- 

 cayed Oak leaves, with the addition of silver 

 Hand and crushed crocks, suits them admirably. 



PLANTS UNDER GLASS. 



By Thomas Stevenson, Gardener to E. Mocatta, Esq., 



Wobum Place, Addlestone, Surrey. 



Winter-flowering Begonias.— Cuttings of 

 winter-flowering Begonias may be inserted as 

 they become large enough, and these are often 

 found to be more free in growth than the earlier 

 rooted ones. Plants raised at this date wuU 

 prove very useful for growing in small pots, and 

 the present is also a good time for propagating 

 the variety Gloire de Sceaux. The^ earlier cut- 

 tings should now be ready for potting in small 

 60's, using a very light compost. They should 

 be grown in a house or pit where a moderate 

 temperature is maintained, and where the voung 

 plants may receive plenty of shade. Yellow 

 thrip is sometimes troublesome on the newer, 

 large winter-flowering varieties, therefore, in ad- 

 dition to syringing the plants freely with clean 

 water spray them occasionally with an insecti- 

 cide, or, if more convenient, the house should be 

 lightly fumigated occasionally. Spring^truck 

 cuttings of foliage Begonias, such as B. **aage- 

 ana, B. metallica, and B. John Heal, should be 

 encouraged to make growth by repotting them 

 as often as the roots require increased room. 

 As the weather becomes warmer, it is not neces- 

 sary to keep these subjects in the stove ; a semi- 

 shady position in the intermediate house is suit- 

 able, provided the plants are not moved into it 

 too soon after they are potted. They should not 

 be afforded too much fresh air at the start. 



TORENIA FOURNIERI GRANDIFLORA. — ThlS 



somewhat old-fashioned decorative plant is very 

 useful during August and September in the con- 

 servatory. If seed was sown as advised during 

 March, the young plants should be in a suit- 

 able condition for transferring into 48 pots, ine 

 soil recommended for Gloxinias and Streptocar- 

 pus will suit these plants, and their subsequent 

 treatment may be similar to that given to the 

 latter plants. If bushv plants are required it 

 mav be a3visable to stop the shoots once or 

 twice during the growing season ; in this way » 

 much larger and more effective mass of flower is 

 obtained. 



Gardenia.— In many instances plants of Gar- 

 denia are passing out of flower, and a certain 

 nunfber of those m pots may be repotted. l? os £ 

 that have flowered for the first time in »r"}C n 

 (24' s) pots may be shifted into 11^-inch pots (Li s), 

 and will provide good specimens for next season. 



Cuttings that were rooted a month or two ago 

 should be repotted, as they require increased root 

 room. Rich loam and peat pulled apart roughly 

 will provide a suitable compost. They should be 

 grown in a very warm house, syringing them 

 freely to keep down insect pests. Plants that 

 have been planted out in pits or beds indoors 

 should receive attention. In many instances 

 these plants will be the better for a fairly hard 

 pruning, to ensure a free growth, as young shoots 

 will produce better flowers than stunted growth. 

 After this pruning, the plants should receive a 

 thorough cleansing, especially if they are in- 

 fested with mealy bug ; if the foliage and shoots 

 are periodically sprayed with a fairly strong 

 paraffin emulsion, this pest may be entirely eradi- 

 cated. The surface soil should be removed and 

 a light top-dressing afforded, adding a little 

 Clay's fertiliser if a stimulant is required. 



Rhododendron (Azalea) indicum.— These 

 plants having finished flowering, no time should 

 be lost before overhauling them thoroughly, re- 



Sotting where this is necessary. The old 

 ower-stems should be removed, taking care not 

 to damage the young shoots, which are growing 

 freely. Repotting should not be undertaken unless 

 it is absolutely necessary, as Azaleas are slow- 

 growing subjects and must not be placed in too 

 large pots. Generally, a top-dressing will suffice, 

 but if a larger pot is necessary, one that provides 

 an extra half-inch space around the old ball should 

 be sufficient, and will suffice for the next two or 

 three years, provided the plants are attended to 

 carefully in regard to watering. Good sandy 

 peat, mixed with a little loam, should be em- 

 ployed as a rooting medium, and the compost 

 should be made very firm in the pots with a 

 rammer. After the potting is finished, return 

 the plants to the house or frame, and afford them 

 a little shade during the hottest part of the day, 

 keeping them well damped or syringed, in order 

 to keep down insect pests. 



Can na.— These plants are growing very freely, 

 and many of the earlier ba h are sending up 

 their flower-spikes. Water should be afforded 

 freely during hot weather, and, if the plants are 

 growing in small pots, they will require plenty 

 of liquid and artificial manures. Should the 

 house in which the plants are grown be rather 

 dry, a sharp watch should be kept for red spider, 

 which is sometimes very troublesome to Cannas, 

 causing the foliage to appear sickly. 



Annuals.— In gardens where flowering plants 

 are likely to be scarce during the next month or 

 two it is a good plan to lift a batch of annuals 

 from the beds where they have been pricked out 

 and pot them direct into their flowering pots. It 

 is astonishing what good results are obtained 

 with many summer-flowering annuals when 

 treated in this manner : all they require is the 

 shelter of a cold frame from the time they are 

 potted until they flower. Ten-week Stacks, 

 Chinese Asters, Larkspurs, Coreopsis Statices, 

 Lupins. Godetias, Petunias Salpiglossis, an- 

 nual Chrysanthemums and Antirrhinums mav 

 all be grown in pots. If afforded a little shade 

 for a few days after they are potted they will 

 soon recover from the check caused by shifting 

 them The lights should be placed on the frames 

 during the hottest part of the day, so as to pro- 

 vide a little shade. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



B* Edwin Beckett, Gardener to the Hon. Vicary Gibbi, 

 By Edwin *> Aldenham House> Hertfordshire. 



Celery. — Continue to plant Celery during 

 showery weather, if possible If these condi- 

 tionTJe not available, lift only a few plants as 

 required, and give them a eood soaking with 

 wX immediately after tney are planted^ 

 Damp the foliage each evening and sprinkle 

 ft Frequently with fresh soot, which is an ex- 

 cellent preventive of the Celery fly. 



Cauliflowers. -The earli t Cauliflowers 

 planted out-of-doors will need soakings of water 

 fnd Squid manure. Place a mulch of rotten 

 mainS round the ba.se of each plant, and, as 

 £e heads commence to swell, either break down 

 th eaf or two over them, or tie >ut [the^avj 

 much in the same manner as Cos L f .^s are 



holes vvitnime u BOWinR8 f re . 



" q r!£ to r prS r fe sessional planting 



a 



Parsley,— Encourage a free growth in the 

 plants bv loosening the surface soil frequently. 

 Occasional dustings with soot not only stimulate 

 the growth, but also prevent slugs eating the 

 plants, and impart that dark green colour 

 which is so much admired in this herb. Another 

 sowing of Parsley should be made this month 

 in the open ground. For winter supplies, it 

 will suffice to make a sowing in a couple of 

 months' time. The flower-spikes should be 

 picked out as they form at all seasons, whilst 

 the leaves should be gathered regularly and at 



intervals. 



Potatos.— The soil between the rows of the 

 main crop of Potatos should be kept well hoed 

 before the earth is drawn up ; if the growths are 

 too numerous, the weaker ones should be re- 

 moved. Dust the plants with soot during 

 showery weather, and, when sufficient growth is 

 made, support the stems by drawing the soil up 

 to them with the draw * hoe. Early Potatos 

 growing in cold frames may, if not wanted imme- 

 diately, be lifted and stored in a cool place in 

 soil; this will permit of the frames being utilised 

 for other purposes, prevents the tubers growing 

 too large, and, to a certain extent, preserves their 



newness. 

 Cucumbers.— The plantB must receive con- 



stant attention, otherwise the crop will suffer. 

 Red spider, which is a troublesome pest at all 

 times, is especially in evidence at this stage; 

 vigorous syringings, accompanied by frequent 

 damping of the beds and bare spaces, will do 

 much to check its spread. Dryness at the roots 

 is one of the chief causes of red spider appearing ; 

 therefore, guard against this by affording liberal 

 supplies of moisture and occasional applications 

 of manure. If the growth shows signs of attack 

 from red spider, syringe the plant* in the even- 

 ing. Cut the fruits as dbon as they are a suitable 

 size, and, if not required immediately, stand the 

 stalk end in water. Regulate the growths at least 

 onoe weekly, removing all useless shoots. Con- 

 tinue to top-dress the plants with suitable ma- 

 trial as often as is necessary. If seed is to be saved 

 from any particular varietv, the present is the 

 best time to pollinate the flowers, marking them 

 for purposes of identification. Plants growing in 

 pits and frames will need the growths wrulated 



and pegged down. Syringe the foliage each after- 

 noon and close the frame early or late in the 

 day according to the weather. When the fruits 

 commence to form, top-dressings should be 

 afforded and stimulants when watering, exactly 

 a*> recommended for the plants in houses. 



Endive. -Towards the middle of the present 

 month make a sowing of Endive for autumn sup- 

 plies. Sow thinly in shallow drills, and, for 

 preference, on a shady border. A row of this 

 vegetable may often be accommodated quite close 

 to pvramidal Apples or other small fruit trees 

 in well- worked ground. Thin the plants as soon 

 as they have attained a sufficient size. 



Mushrooms. — In a cool shed continue to 

 make and spawn fresh beds as the material 

 becomes available. The rudest shed that is 

 light, waterproof, and in a north aspect will 

 produce the best results. It is necessary to 

 have the structure as cool as possible, for which 

 reason double walls of wood, lined with straw, 

 are best, and an earth path will keep the internal 

 conditions suitable. Damp the walls and paths 

 twice daily, and any beds that are dry should 

 b3 watered copiously ; beds that have been m 

 bearing for some time may be watered with 

 liquid manure with advantage. Anv mulch ap- 

 plied to the beds after spawning should be re- 

 moved as soon as the fungus commences to grow. 

 Guard against slugs, cockroaches, and crickets, 

 all of which injure the Mushrooms. \\ hen ready 

 for gathering, do not cut the Mushrooms, but 

 sever them by twisting. 



Runner Beans.— Another sowing of Runnei 

 Beans mav be made. The earliest-sown nlants 

 in pots or planted out will be benefited by damp- 

 ings on warm evenings ; during showery weather 

 apply a dusting of soot. Watering is accom- 

 plished most easi when the seeds are *own in 

 trenches. Place a mulch of strawy litter between 



the rows. . , 



General Remarks. -Continue, as becomes 



nece<sarv, to thin the various crops, and keep 

 the Dutih hoe frequently employed between the 

 rows. Water newly-planted vegetables weU, 

 and leave a depr, ion m the soil about the roots 

 for that purpose. Sow Spinach and Turnips for 

 succession, and mulch all crops where possible. 



