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THE GARDENERS' CHRONICLE. 



[June 15, 1912. 



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^ The Week' s Work. Hi 



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THE ORCHID HOUSES, 



By J. Collier, Gardener to Sir Jeremiah Coliian, Bart., 



Gatton Park, Surrey. 



Ccelogyne. — Such species as G. barbata. C. 

 ocellata, C. speciosa, C. odoratissima, C. ' San- 

 deriana, C. conferta, and C. Sanderae are now 

 making new growths, and should be afforded 

 fresh rooting materials. All these plants thrive 

 well if placed near to the roof -glass in a shady 



gart of the intermediate house. C. Dayana and 

 . flaccida produce pendulous racemes, therefore 

 these plants should be grown in pans and sus- 

 pended from the roof, in an intermediate tem- 

 perature. Such species as C. Lowii, C. tomen- 

 tosa, and C. Massangeana should, as they pass 

 out of flower, also receive attention at the roots. 

 They should be suspended in a shady part of the 

 East India house during their season of active 

 growth, removing them afterwards to the 

 warmest part of the Cattleya house. In potting, 

 employ a compost consisting of one-third good 

 fibrous loam, two-thirds Al fibre, and a little 

 chopped Sphagnum moss, cutting the loam and 

 fibre in short portions. When mixing «the ma- 

 terials together, add a suitable quantity of 

 crushed crocks to ensure porosity. Press the soil 

 rather firmly about the roots. The plants should 

 be well shaded after repotting and watered 

 with great care, pouring the water near the 

 edges of the receptacles to prevent moisture 

 from settling in the young growths, as that 

 causes them to damp off. When the roots 

 are established in the new compost, water should 

 be applied liberally, and during warm summer 

 weather the plants should be sprayed frequently 

 overhead and on the undersides of the leaves. 



-Zygopetalum 

 coeleste, B. dis- 



should re- 



Zygopetalum and Bollea. 

 and such Bolleas as B. 

 color, and B. Warscewiczella, 

 ceive attention as to repotting or top- 

 dressing just after new growth has started. 

 These plants should not be subjected to root 

 disturbance unless it is absolutely necessary. 

 They may be grown either in pots or pans, which 

 should be provided with ample materials for 

 drainage purposes. As a rooting medium, em- 

 ploy a mixture of two parts Al fibre and one 

 part clean, picked Sphagnum-moss, cutting both 

 materials in rather short portions, adding a quan- 

 tity of crushed crocks and small lumps of char- 

 coal. These grow best in a shaded position ; 

 they may be placed in a moist, shady corner in 

 the intermediate house. Repotted plants should 

 be afforded water sparingly, but the spaces be- 

 tween the pots should be syringed frequently, 

 whilst their surroundings should at all times be 

 kept in a moist condition. The plants should 

 never be allowed to become quite dry at the 

 roots. 



Platyclinis. — As plants of P. filiformis 

 pass out of flower, they should be repotted or 

 top-dressed as is found to be necessary. They 

 are best grown in pans suspended from the roof, 

 in a shady position, in an intermediate tempera- 

 ture. They should be sprayed frequently over- 

 head and on the undersides of the leaves all 

 through their period of active growth, as a 

 means of warding off the attacks of red spider. 

 Liberal supplies of water should be afforded the 

 roots until the growths are completed. P. glu- 

 macea and P. uncata should be afforded a similar 

 treatment during their season of growth. 



L>elia.— Plants of Laelia anceps and ita 

 varieties are growing freely, and should be 

 afforded a liberal treatment in every respect. 

 They should not be too densely shaded ; but the 

 blinds may be lowered in the morning when the 

 sun is shining so brightly as to cause the foliage 

 to become warm ; they should be drawn up again 

 early in the afternoon. The house should be 

 ventilated freely during the hottest part of the 

 day, but closed sufficiently early for the tem- 

 perature to rise to about 90°, when the plants 

 should be syringed overhead. Late in the even- 

 ing the house should again be ventilated freely, 

 so as to lower the temperature to about 65° by 

 morning, as the plants do best in a cool night 

 temperature. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G. Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastwell Park, Kent. 



Propagating Spring - bedding Plants. — 



When the spring-flowering subjects are removed 

 from the flower-beds, they are usually planted 

 temporarily in a shady border till the summer 

 bedding is completed. Their propagation, 

 whether by division or cuttings, should then 

 be attended to without further delay, in order 

 to have strong plants by the autumn. If a 

 stock of Aubrietias of certain shades or varie- 

 ties is desired, it is best to propagate the plants 

 by division, rather than by seeds, as seedlings 

 usually provide a great diversity of colours. The 

 double-flowered Arabis should be propagated 

 from cuttings, which should be dibbled fairly 

 thickly in boxes filled with light sandy soil. 

 Place the boxes in cold frames and shade the 

 cuttings from strong sunshine, but remove the 

 shading in the evenings, and on dull days. 

 During hot, dry weather, the frame should 

 be kept close and damp, but the lights should be 

 opened a little at night to allow superfluous 

 moisture to escape. After the cuttings have 

 become rooted, the amount of fresh air may 

 be increased gradually, especially at night, and, 

 as the plants strengthen, the lights may be re- 

 moved altogether. After that stage the plants 

 will soon be ready for planting in the reserve 

 garden, where they will require little attention 

 beyond keeping the ground clean, and affording 

 occasional waterings in dry weather. Daisies, 

 Polyanthuses and Primroses may be divided, 

 if it is desired to increase the stocks of these 

 subjects, and the portions planted in the reserve 

 garden. Rich ground should be selected, as 

 these plants are strong-rooting subjects. If seed- 

 lings are raised each year for spring bedding, 

 the old plants should be divided, and planted 

 out in the wild garden or by woodland paths. 



Bulbs. — It is often necessary to remove the 



bulbous plants from the flower-beds before the 

 growth has matured, in order to make room for 

 the summer-bedding plants. In these cir- 

 cumstances the bulbs should be lifted and placed 

 in rows in soil or ashes in the reserve quarter 

 or frame ground with as little delay as possible. 

 They should be well watered and allowed to 

 remain till the foliage has completely died away. 

 Hyacinths and Tulips may be planted in the 

 reserve garden to furnish cut blooms another 

 season, or they may be utilised for the mixed 

 borders. Daffodils may be planted in woods or 

 naturalised in orchards and other suitable places. 



Summer -flowering Chrysanthemums. — 



These plants are commencing to grow freely, and 

 the soil should be hoed at frequent intervals, to 

 keep it in a good condition and clear of weeds. 

 If slugs are troublesome, dust the plants occa- 

 sionally with a little soot in the evening when the 

 dew is on them or after a shower. The soot 

 will tend to keep them clean and healthy, 

 and is also a good stimulant. During dry 

 weather, when the plants are in full growth, a 

 light mulch will be beneficial. If the plants are 

 strong and healthy they will branch freely natur- 

 ally, rendering much stopping unnecessary. 

 Place a few stakes in position early, and secure 

 the main stem firmly, using strong ties to loop 

 up the other growths. Single Chrysanthemums 

 are very attractive, and with the Japanese varie- 

 ties are useful for garden decoration, also for 

 furnishing cut blooms. They may be had in 

 bloom from August till nearly Christmas if 

 planted in sheltered situations. 



Anchusa italica. -The Dropmore variety of 

 this plant is a most beautiful subject when in 

 bloom, and is worthy of extended cultivation. 

 The flowers are of the best shade of blue that is 

 known in any herbaceous plants. Single plants 

 show to advantage in the mixed border, but it ap- 

 pears at its best when grouped in quantity, and, 

 if possible, where it is sheltered from strong 

 winds. It is an exceptionally robust grower, and 

 will grow from 4 to 6 feet high. The shoots 

 should be firmly secured to stakes in their early 

 stages, and the flower-spikes looped up as they 

 elongate. A. italica "Opal" is another very 

 attractive variety with light blue flowers. 



General Remarks.— Every effort should be 

 made to complete all planting of tender plants 

 for summer effect. When planting is delayed, 

 the plants become stunted in the pots and boxes, 

 receiving a check, from which they take a long 



time to recover, so that the season is far ad- 

 vanced before any floral effect is produced. If 

 from unpreventable causes the plants cannot be 

 put out as early as anticipated, they should be 

 given a little manurial assistance, which will 

 keep them growing and healthy. 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



By Edwin Beckett, Gardener to the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, 



Aldenham House, Hertfordshire. 



Brassicas (Winter Greens). — The recent 

 welcome showers have caused a fine recovery of 

 many of the kitchen garden crops which 

 had failed to make much progress during 

 the period of drought. Take every oppor- 

 tunity to plant in their permanent posi- 

 tions the various kinds of Brassicas which will 

 be required for use next winter and spring. 

 Though it is not possible in many gardens +jO 

 reserve plots of ground for the special reception 

 of winter greens, very much may be done by 

 inter-cropping among such subjects as Peas, 

 Broad Beans, and winter Onions, especially 

 where these have been afforded ample room. 

 Except entailing a little extra care in gathering 

 the produce, these greens do no harm to the 

 other crops, and frequently, during hot weather, 

 the latter affords just sufficient shade to enable 

 the green vegetables to start away freely. The 

 majority of the Brassica tribe are much better 

 able to withstand severe weather when planted 

 in firm ground, and by removing the first crop 

 at the earliest opportunity, and forking over the 

 surface about 3 inches deep, little further 

 labour will need to be expended on them. Over- 

 crowding should be strictly guarded against, 

 plenty of room is necessary for the plants 

 to build up a solid growth, which will stand 



good stead during spells of wintry 

 Make one more sowing each of Rosette 

 and London Hardy Green. These are 



perfectly hardy, and 



reen vegetables 



them in 

 weather. 



Colewort 



both excellent varieties, 



frequently furnish a supply of 



during mid-winter and very early spring, when 

 other kinds are scarce. 



Vegetable Marrows. — Plants growing in 

 frames and fruiting during the past six weeks 

 may now be exposed by removing both the lights 

 and the frames. Carefully thin the shoots, re- 

 moving any useless growths and decaying leaves. 

 Furnish a thorough mulching of good loam and 

 well-decayed manure, and keep both the foliage 

 and the roots well supplied with water. These 

 plants should continue to produce prolific sup- 

 plies of Marrows for as long as the weather re- 

 mains open in the autumn. By starting the 

 plants thus early in frames, not only are early 

 fruits obtained, but the plants are in full bear- 

 ing when it is safe to remove the frames. Suc- 

 cessional plants should be inserted in well-pre- 

 pared beds, choosing, as far as possible, shel- 

 tered but open, sunny positions. Gourds and 

 Pumpkins should also be placed in their perma- 

 nent quarters at once. 



Asparagus.— By the middle of the present 

 month the cutting of the shoots should cease, 

 taking care to leave growths, as far as possible, 

 all over the bed. Where practicable, give the 

 beds a thorough drenching of manure water, 

 and, in exposed positions, the stronger growths 

 should be supported. 



French Beans.— Plants growing in frames 

 should be staked and tied. Afford the roots an 

 abundance of moisture, including liquid manure, 

 and well syringe the growths, both at morning 

 and early in the evening. Gather the pods as 

 soon as they are large enough. 



Onions. — Plants of the main sowings of 

 Onions in the open should be well supplied with 

 soot and fertilisers during showery weather. 

 Keep the ground free from weeds, and stir the 

 surface of the soil constantly. 



Cardoons.— See that these plants are well 

 thinned apart, allowing a distance of at least 

 18 inches from plant to plant. Give a good sur- 

 face dressing of half-decayed horse droppings, 

 and an abundance of water to the roots. Where 

 this vegetable is in demand, another sowing 

 should be made in well-prepared trenches. 



Globe Artichokes.— If the work has not 

 been done already, the plants should be mulched 

 thoroughly, and the roots afforded frequent 

 drenchings of liquid manure 





