



June 22, 1912.] 



THE GARDENERS CHRONICLE. 



411 



the year. By re-potting them early next season 

 the plants will flower soon and continue to pre- 

 sent a display throughout the summer, provided 

 that stimulants are afforded. Plants of the 

 ordinary batch of Fuchsias should be commenc- 

 ing to flower freely, and to have them in bloom 

 for a long time, considerable pains must be taken 

 with their feeding. Cow and sheep manure, with 

 a little Clay's fertiliser now and again, are suit- 

 able stimulants. A dry atmosphere is a dis- 

 advantage, therefore as soon as syringing over- 

 head has to be discontinued the stages and floors 

 of the house should be kept damped on all bright 

 days. 



MlGNON 



. — To maintain a supply of Mig- 

 nonette throughout the year frequent sowings 

 must be made. For autumn blooming (after the 

 outside supply is over) a sowing should be made 

 at once in medium 60-sized pots. Fairly rich 

 loam mixed with old mortar is a suitable rooting 

 medium, and the soil should be made very firm 

 in the pots, as this is one of the secrets of suc- 

 cessful cultivation of Mignonette, both in the 

 seedling and later stages. After the seeds are 

 sown the pots should be placed in a cool position, 

 where they may be protected from heavy rains. 

 The plants should be repotted as they require 

 increased root-room, and, if not over watered, 

 they should grow stocky. It is not to be ex- 

 pected that the plants will develop such strong 

 spikes during the autumn as in the spring. For 

 a further succession make a sowing about the 

 middle of July. 



THE ORCHID HOUSES. 



By J. Collier, Gardener to Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart. t 



Gatton Park, Surrey. 



Cypr i pedium. — Plants of the dwarf-growing 

 Cypripediums, such as C. bellatulum and its 

 variety C. b. auburn; also C. niveum, C. concolor, 

 and their hybrids, such as C. Helen II, C. 

 Laurebel, C. Chapmanii, C. Venus, C. Vipani, 

 and C. Mrs. E. V. Low, that have recently 

 flowered should be attended to at the roots, re- 

 potting or resurfacing them as is found to be 

 necessary. Well-rooted specimens growing in 

 material that is still in a good condition should 

 not be disturbed. These plants are best grown 

 in pots or fairly deep pans, provided with ample 

 materials for drainage purposes. A suitable 

 compost to grow them in consists of two parts 

 good fibrous loam, broken up in lumps about 

 the size of Walnuts, and one part peat, mixed 

 freely with small pieces of mortar rubble. The 

 potting should be done rather firmly. After 

 the repotting is finished, water should be ap- 

 plied carefully until the roots have grown freely 

 in the new compost, when they should be 

 afforded moisture in sufficient quantities to 

 moisten the soil throughout. They grow well in a 

 position near the roof-glass of the Cattleya or 

 intermediate house. Precautions must be taken 

 against water dripping on the plants, as this 

 might cause the young growths or leaves to rot. 

 The small, yellow thrip is very fond of the 

 young foliage, and should be destroyed by fre- 

 quent fumigations. Many species and hybrids 

 of the stronger, warmth-loving Cypripediums, 

 such as C. grande, C. Rothschildianum, C. 

 Stonei, C. Lawrenceanum, and its variety C. L. 

 Hyeanum, and C. Maudiae, should be subjected 

 to a rest for a short period after passing out of 

 bloom that they may recover from the effects of 

 flowering. After resting, the plants should re- 

 ceive attention at the roots ; any that are in a 

 root-bound condition should be shifted into 

 larger pots. In potting, remove with a pointed 

 stick as much of the old compost as is possible, 

 without damaging the roots, and fill the pot to 

 half its depth with clean crocks for drainage. 

 Pot firmly, keeping the base of the plant just 

 below the rim of the receptacle. A suitable 

 medium in w T hich to grow them consists of three 

 parts good fibrous loam, and one part Al fibre 

 or Osmunda fibre cut up rather short, adding 

 Sphagnum-moss, crushed crocks and coarse silver 

 sand. The materials should be well mixed to- 

 gether. After potting them, place the plants in 

 a shady part of the house, and keep the compost 

 just moist until the new roots have grown well 

 into the soil, when water should be applied 

 liberally. During bright weather, the plants 

 will be benefited by a fine spray overhead on 

 mornings and afternoons, and the surroundings 

 should be kept moist. 



Thunia. — Although the flowers of Thunias 

 do not last for a long time after they are fully 

 expanded, the plants are, nevertheless, very at- 

 tractive. T. Benson©, T. candidissima, T. 

 Marshalliae, T. Winniana, T. pulchra, and the 

 hybrids Veitehiana and T. brymeriana, should, 

 as they pass out of flower, be removed to a cool, 

 well-ventilated greenhouse, where the tempera- 

 ture does not fall below 55°. The stems and 

 leaves should be ex^sed gradually to the full 

 sunlight, so as to thoroughly mature them. The 

 plants will need to be watered at the roots occa- 

 sionally for so long as the leaves remain green ; 

 when the foliage commences to change to a yel- 

 low colour, moisture should be gradually with- 

 held. When exposed to the sunshine and in a 

 dry atmosphere, the plants are apt to become 

 infested with red spider. To prevent this, they 

 should be placed on their sides and syringed 

 with an insecticide, or soft soap in warm rain- 

 water, allowing sufficient time for the leaves to 

 dry before syringing the plants again with clear 

 water. Thunias are easily propagated from the 

 back pseudo-bulbs, which should be cut through 

 joints into lengths of about 4 inches, and in- 

 serted in pots in a mixture of chopped Sphag- 

 num-moss and silver sand. If the cuttings are 

 placed in a frame in the warmest house, they 

 will soon develop roots and top growth, when 

 they may be potted singly in a rich compost. 

 They will grow well in the same house, and will 

 soon make good stems. When growth is com- 

 pleted, the plants should be rested in a manner 

 similar to that adopted for the older plants. 



THE FLOWER GARDEN. 



By J. G. Weston, Gardener to Lady Northcote, 



Eastvvell Park, Kent. 



Sub-tropical Beds. — As the majority of 

 plants used for sub-tropical bedding possess very 

 tender foliage, it is a good plan to defer plant- 

 ing them till all the other bedding is finished. 

 There should be no delay in getting all the 

 subjects required for summer effects into their 

 permanent quarters. Sub-tropical plants require 

 a fairly rich soil, in order to develop the beauti- 

 ful foliage, which is their greatest charm. If, 

 for any reason, no animal manure has been dug 

 into the beds recently, a dressing of artificial 

 manure should be applied before planting. Dur- 

 ing dry weather an occasional watering must be 

 afforded. In many gardens there are corners 

 which may be made attractive by large Palms 

 and similar plants plunged in the ground, 

 especially where turf exists, as this may be re- 

 laid over the receptacles. Large plants of 

 Chamaerops Fortunei, C. humilis, Phoenix, 

 Agave, Musa, Cordyline, Phormium tenax ( X ew 

 Zealand Flax), and the hardier Tree Ferns, such 

 as Dicksonia antarctica, are often grown in large 

 pots or tubs for decorative purposes. It will 

 materially assist to keep these plants in good 

 health if they are given out-door treatment for 

 three or four months. They should not be 

 brought out of warm houses and put directly in 

 their positions, but prepared by standing them 

 in a warm, sheltered corner for some days, till 

 they are inured to the out-door conditions. The 

 shady positions should be reserved for the Palms 

 and Ferns. A shady dell may be made charming 

 by a skilful grouping of Tree Ferns, Palms, and 

 Musas. Close attention should be paid to water- 

 ing, and small applications of manure should be 

 afforded the plants fortnightly, especially in the 

 case of specimens that have oeen occupying the 

 same tub for several years. During hot weather, 

 the Tree Ferns should be syringed each after- 

 noon, care being taken to saturate the stems. 



Rhododendrons and Azaleas. — These 

 shrubs have flowered remarkably well this sea- 

 son, but they are now practically over. Wherever 

 practicable, and particularly in the case of young 

 plants, the seed vessels should be taken off, thus 

 allowing all the energies of the plant to be de- 

 voted to making new growth. A little judicious 

 pruning may be necessary, and should consist in 

 shortening any shoots that are growing too ram- 

 pantly, and causing the plants to become un- 

 shapely. Take off all growths from the base of 

 specimen standards, or they will spoil the shape 

 of the plants. This also applies to shoots form- 

 ino' below the place at which the graft was in- 

 serted. The dry spring has been very un- 

 favourable to newly-planted Rhododendrons and 

 Azaleas, but the plants that were watered and 



mulched are making good growth. The mulch 

 should be replenished if dry weather is again 

 experienced. This will save labour in watering, 

 and is of great help to the plants. 



Lilies. — These bulbous plants are often 

 grown with Azaleas and Rhododendrons; which 

 association produces pkasing effects. Liliums, 

 as a rule, thrive well in Azalea beds, and the 

 shade of the shrubs over the roots and 

 stems of the Lilies is of great benefit to the 

 latter plants. There is a charming variety of 

 Lilies to select from, and the various kinds will 

 flower at intervals throughout the season till late 

 in the autumn. L. auratum is probably the most 

 popular species for the purpose, the variety 



Slatyphyllum being especially good. L. longi- 

 i orum is much liked for the pure whiteness of 

 its blooms, whilst those of the speciosum group 

 are easily cultivated, thriving almost anywhere. 

 L. Henryi is like a yellow speciosum, and 

 should be planted in quantity. L. tigrinum For- 

 tunei is extremely effective in late autumn; L. 

 giuanteum is quite distinct from the majority of 

 Liliums, being a noble plant in growth, develop- 

 ing its flower-spikes to a height of 10 or 12 feet. 

 This species should be planted by woodland 

 paths, and not crowded with other plants. 

 Where Liliums have not been planted early, they 

 may be transferred from pots at almost any 

 time, if care is taken in their removal. In 

 planting Liliums, select a position sheltered from 

 wind, and pay timely attention to the matter of 

 staking. 



THE APIARY. 



By Chloris. 



The Queen for the Heather Stock. 

 In some parte of the country beekeepers are for- 

 tunate in having early honey from fruit blossom 

 and Clover and a late supply from Heather. When 

 the latter is being harvested the queen is apt to 

 prove disappointing, because she is exhau.strd 

 from her efforts during the earlier part of the 

 season. This matter is little understood by bee- 

 men, but it is well worthy of consideration. 



The Queen and Her Food.— The queen, 

 during the egg-laving period, is fed by her at- 

 tendants on stimulating, predigested food, which 

 is of a creamy nature, but, as the honey flow 

 decreases, less and less is given, so that gradually 

 the queen produces fewer and fewer eggs, and she 

 is compelled to seek her own food in the cells 

 like the rest of the occupants of the hive; con- 

 versely, during the beginning of the season, less 

 and less raw honey is consumed, and gradually 

 the amount of bee milk is increased, and ap- 

 parently the bees in attendance urge her to take 

 it freely, so that her laying powers may be 

 increased to the utmost. So it comes about that, 

 at the end of the first part of the season, she is 

 exhausted and needs a rest. 



Superseding the Old Queen.— If the 



Heather harvest is to prove as bountiful as the 

 profusion of bloom would indicate, it is necessary 

 to take away the old queen and allow another 

 queen to take her place. For this purpose one 

 that was raised earlier in the season could be 

 utilised, of course using one of proved fecundity. 



Introducing the New Queen. — Remove 

 the queen and examine the comb to make sure 

 there are no queen cells in any stage of construc- 

 tion, and adopt one of the following methods, 



either of which may be used with almost certain 

 success : (1) During the evening smoke the stock 

 to make the bees gorge themselves with honey, 

 move the hive to a quiet corner of the garden, 

 take out the frames one by one, shaking off the* 

 bees on a sheet on which a skep is resting on a 

 stone to provide a good entrance. Should the bees 

 fail to be dislodged with the sharp shake, they 

 must be brushed off with a stout quill. When all 

 the bees have been hived in the empty skep, 

 take the hive back to its original stand, place a 

 board in front covered with a sheet, shake out 

 the bees in front as is done in hiving a swarm, 

 putting the new queen among them, when it is- 

 very rarely they reject her. (2) Remove the queen 

 before and examine the hive for aueen cells. 



In the evening, just before dusk, liberate the new 

 queen in front of the entrance, making as little 

 disturbance as possible, and she will run in un- 

 noticed, in all likelihood, and be accepted. When 

 taking bees to the Heather, it is often wise to 

 add some driven bees to each stock to make the 

 colonies very strong. 



