CHAP. 11. CURIOUS MODE OF TAKING SNUFF. 31 



nature of the feelings entertained towards his coiuitry by the 

 government and people at Mauritius, and expressed him- 

 self very desirous that all impediments to the re-opening of 

 the trade might be removed. 



Leaving his garden, we walked through a part of the vil- 

 lage, and reached the custom house, which seemed to be a 

 place of general resort for a number of the residents and 

 strangers. We conversed some time with the chief custom- 

 house officer, who could make himself understood in French. 

 He spoke of the native Christians, and said that the punish- 

 ments inflicted the last time they were discovered were so 

 severe, and so many had been put to death, that but few 

 besides the prince and some of the queen's relations re- 

 mained. He said he greatly regi-etted the closing of the 

 schools, and often spoke with evident satisfaction of his own 

 son having gained a prize or honour at one of the latest 

 examinations which were held before public teaching was 

 discontinued, adding, that all the chiefs earnestly desired 

 education for their children, and that the youth of the coun- 

 try were themselves eager after knowledge. 



I was much amused on this occasion, and often afterwards, 

 with the manner in which the chiefs and people generally 

 indulge their taste for an article resembling snuff, a native 

 manufacture comprising other ingredients besides the pul- 

 verised leaf of tobacco, such as salt, and the ashes of a native 

 herb, which mixture is regularly sold in the markets. The 

 retinue of every chief or officer of any rank includes a bearer 

 of what we should call his snuff-box. Those officers who 

 attend on a superior, or are unattended by their own slaves, 

 carry this article of luxury in some part of their dress, fre- 

 quently suspended from the girdle, and concealed under the 

 folds of their lamba ; and we sometimes met a traveller with 

 his snuff-box suspended from his neck, who seemed almost 

 destitute of everything else except the most scanty clothing. 



