cuAp. IX. FAREWELL VIEW OF THE SETTLEMENT. 235 



on every hand, and near them the low, beehive-shaped huts 

 which formed their present shelter and their homes. Around 

 us, in the midst of this diversified scene, were gathered the 

 greater part of the people, their hearts overflowing with 

 gladness on finding that, after all they had suffered, there 

 were yet those who could sympathise in their sorrows, and 

 feel and speak kindly to them. Again and again, after the 

 general leave-taking, one and another came to say how 

 grateful to them our visit had been, inspiring hope for the 

 future, and bringing back to their recollections the pleasures 

 of bygone days, when friendly visits were frequent; and 

 when I looked around and turned from the landscape to 

 the people, and saw their deep emotion, and listened to their 

 parting words, I felt that I could not envy the feelings of 

 any one who could have gazed unmoved on such a scene. 



Soon after we had left the good people at Philipton rain 

 began to fall, and continued during the day ; but though the 

 road was slippery and travelling difficult, we arrived soon 

 after dark at the ford of the Chumie river, the banks of which 

 were so steep and slippery that our driver wished to halt 

 until daybreak ; but by means of ropes we managed to keep 

 our waggon upright, and soon after crossing reached Macfar- 

 lane, where we were welcomed by Mr. M'Dermid of the Scotch 

 mission, and felt grateful for the shelter of his friendly roof 

 during the storm and the rain of the night. 



The next day our driver, who had been engaged with the 

 colonial forces, and had been wounded in the late war, pointed 

 out many scenes of carnage lying in our route. 



Continuing our way over this lately disputed ground, and 

 having Alice or Fort Hare on our right, and Fort Cox at the 

 foot of the Amatola mountains on our left, we reached 

 Knapp's Hope, which is pleasantly situated on a grassy slope, 

 running down to the Keiskamma river. Here we remained 

 with Mr. Kayser and his family until the follo\ving day, much 



