254 VISITS TO MADAGASCAR. chap x. 



dwelling, I was met at the custom Ijouse by one of the officers 

 of the port, who led me to a large newly-built house, situated 

 within an enclosure in the centre of the village ; and, having 

 shown me the three several rooms, the floors of which were 

 boarded, and the walls covered with matting, he informed me 

 that it was at my service so long as I might require it. On 

 my asking the terms, he said no payment was required ; but, 

 at the same time, intimated that he wished to have the refusal 

 of an officer's cocked hat, which he understood the captain of 

 the ship had for sale. 



In walking through the village I was struck with the change 

 which the opening of the trade after our visit in 1853 had 

 produced. The native population appeared to have been 

 greatly increased ; a number of houses for foreign traders had 

 been built, and others were in course of erection ; among 

 them, and not far from the landing-place, an hotel or board- 

 ing-house, the first ever erected in Madagascar. Considerable 

 quantities of rice appeared to be collected for exportation. 

 Cargoes of horned cattle were said to be easily obtained, and 

 upwards of 4,000 head of cattle had, since the opening of 

 the trade, been annually exported to JNIauritius alone. The 

 trade of the port was not at that time considered to be active 

 and flourishing. There had been but few native dealers from 

 the capital, and rumours were afloat among the people of an 

 armed expedition, from France and England combined, against 

 Madagascar, which had produced an effect unfavourable to the 

 commerce of the island. 



As soon as my packages were landed and passed through 

 the custom house, I took up my residence on shore. The 

 first night in my new habitation contrasted strangely with the 

 solitude and stillness of the nights I had passed on the sea. 

 Night seemed to be the holiday season of the slaves of both 

 sexes, whose voices, with those of other classes of the commu- 

 nity, were heard in every direction, mingled with the beating 



