Indirect and Direct Benefits. 47 



the bulk of Varro's. They are still eaten in great numbers on 

 the continent of Europe, particularly during Lent. In Switzer- 

 land, where there are gardens in which they are fed in many 

 thousands together, a considerable trade is carried on in them 

 about that season ; and at Vienna, a few years ago, seven of 

 them were charged at an inn the same as a plate of veal or 

 beef. The usual modes of preparing them for the table are, 

 either boiling, frying them in butter, or sometimes stuffing 

 them with farce-meat ; but in what manner soever they are 

 dressed, it is said, their sliminess always, in a great measure, 

 remains. Those edible snails were introduced into England, 

 about the middle of the sixteenth century, by Charles Howard, 

 of the Arundel family, and afterwards by the eccentric Sir 

 Kenelm Digby, either as being a favourite foreign delicacy, or 

 in order to cure his beautiful wife of a consumptive disease. * 

 The fashion seems to have taken, for the great master-cook, 

 Robert May, has left several receipts for dressing snails among 

 the secrets of his fifty years' experience f ; but, like other fa- 

 shions, it soon passed away, for the English have no relish of 

 such "liquorish viands." In proof of this, and as a pleasant con- 

 clusion to a long letter^ allow me to transcribe for you a story 

 from the pen of Sir Walter Scott : — 



" The chemical philosophers Dr. Black and Dr. Hutton 

 were particular friends, though there was something extremely 

 opposite in their external appearance and manner. Dr. Black 

 spoke with the English pronunciation, with punctilious ac- 

 curacy of expression, both in point of matter and manner. 

 The geologist was the very reverse of this : his conversation 

 was conducted in broad phrases, expressed with a broad Scotch 

 accent, which often heightened the humour of what he said. 



" It chanced that the two doctors had held some discourse 

 together upon the folly of abstaining from feeding on the tes- 

 taceous creatures of the land, while those of the sea were con- 

 sidered as delicacies. Wherefore not eat snails ? They are 

 well known to be nutritious and wholesome, even sanative in 

 some cases. The epicures of olden times enumerated, among 

 the richest and raciest delicacies, the snails which were fed in 

 the marble quarries of Lucca : the Italians still hold them in 

 esteem. In short, it was determined that a gastronomic experi- 

 ment should be made at the expense of the snails. The snails 

 were procured, dieted for a time, then stewed for the benefit of 



* Some years ago they were introduced into Scotland by Pat. Neill, Esq., 

 and placed in his curious and most interesting garden at Cannonmills ; but, 

 we believe, they have not prospered, and are gradually disappearing. 



t The above particulars are from the works of Pennant, Bingley, &c. ; 

 and from Southey's Omniana, vol. ii. p. 81. 



