8 THE GARDENERS’ 
CHRONICLE. 
3 
[Joy 6, 1906, 
trenching, and add to the garden soil a portion of 
from an old Cucumber-frame, with one-fourth 
loam—mix these well together, and prepare th 
some length of time before planting, in order that it 
ebruary in rows ch part, an 
3 to 4 inches in the row, merked dibber, so 
that the roots may be all planted at one uniform depth, 
and cover the roots from 1 to 14 inches deep. Should 
the weather prove very wet or frosty before the planta 
otect the beds with straw, mats, or some 
suitable material, Whenthe plants commence to show 
bloom, give plenty of water between the rows, but 
never water over the plants, which is one cause of 
failure; when in flower protect them with an awning 
d wet, and when the foliage is nearly 
ered about six weeks after flowering, select a 
fine day and take the roots up. Place them in а 
room where there is plenty of sir to dry gradually. 
After they are once dry they must be kept so, as the 
least damp would mould them. The best time for 
sowing the seed is the middle of October or early in 
J 
anuary, in es or pans, covering the seed 
very lightly, They should be kept in a cool 
frame during frosty weather, and at all times should 
have constant exposure to the light. In May, plunge 
the boxes or pans up to the rim in the open ground, 
where they have only the morning sun; water th 
almost daily until the grass withers, then let the 
boxes become quite dry, About the middle of July 
take them up, gradually dry them, and keep them in 
& box of d In February they should be 
planted and treated in the same way as the old roots, 
Edward Bennett, Lyne, Chertsey 
Tus Carnation Амр Picorse. 
I fear the time has come when I must be classed 
has been my pleasure to Carnation, I 
never knew a season anything present, It 
has been most trying to the show varieties of 
tions and Picotees. The and 
severe froste in 
and February, All the self Carnations 
are doing well, and will flower very strongly. 
In the first place the layers did not form roote well, 
and many of them did not produce any at all; this 
necessitated late planting out or potting up, 
and almost before the plants became established 
severe frosts set in, and the roota were th 
frozen, those in 60- 
not killed were very . 
x Were sent to me as late as May in a 
dying state, the cause of which I had 
in Fe . One good effect f the frost 
the destruction of the g varieties; 
it was certainly a testing „plants which 
in Carnation 
different degrees of vi an in varieties, 
any persons have an idea that the selfs are bardy, 
growing varieties, and that the f izarres, 
&c., are delicate things, only fit forgreenhouse culture, 
SHE LE. + 1141 £ et $ 1 2 
stitu or tha 
well in winter, Indeed, the bizarres and flak 
des it is not 
i them, 
The degree of vigour ation is to a 
extent the colour of the flowers, as 
may be seen by the greater ur of 
rre msons, giving the 
strongest growth; aud yet in selfs the white-flowered 
Carnations are as vigorous, and sometimes, indeed, 
they have greater vigour than the scarlet or crimson- 
coloured varieties. 
Planta of differing degrees of vigour require as 
different treatment, One season the young gardener 
who had charge of my plante, gave the entire collec- 
tion a good dressing with a rich compost in May. 
This answered admirably for all the varieties that 
made short stumpy growths, causing them to grow 
much longer. Those of very vigorous constitution, 
and which produced long-jointed layers, spindled up 
for bloom to an alarming extent, causing consider- 
able loss In а dry season, such as this, a rich 
-dressing is a great to the plants. 
Watering has been much needed everywhere 
in the south; but watering is of little use unless the 
plants can have a mulching of decayed manure, 
and if a thorough soaking is given once in 
a week, that will be much better than giving а small 
quantity daily, but never sufficient to well saturate 
the ground. Anyone can o the effect of 
g on hard, thoroughly dried ground, by 
examining it after the water has been applied for в 
few hours; it will be quite dry about 2 inches below 
Fig. 2 —BHEDYSABUM MULTIUGUM: TO SHOW HAPBIT. 
the surface, unless the suríace has been loosened, 
The treatment of pot-plants requires much thought 
on the part of the gardener, as varieties 
to say that planta 
much water, and if the is not careful 
water each, with due regard to its requiremen 
resulta cannot be s — 
time for layering ie now at hand, and the soil 
ought to be prepared for it, This may consist of 
equal portions of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, A 
little of the surface-soil ought to be removed, and 
mate 
house and fumi- 
year had been attacked 
black aphis, and, unobserved, it had spread — dog 
— | 
ably over the plants, attacking the blooms in . 
ference to the layers, this also К 
TREES AND SHRUBS, 
HEDYSARUM MULTIJUGUM.* 
Ws are indebted to Mr. Lynch, of the Cambridg 
Botanic Garden, for the opportunity of figuring this 
attractive hardy shrub. It is a native of Southen - 
Mongolia, and was described by the 
Maximowien. Oar illustrations (figs. 2, 3) showa 
leaf and a portion of the inflorescence of the natal 
size, together with 
character 
petala. 
eurved, nine and one, Ripe fruit not seen. 
The above is a handsome 
shrub, which has, we believe, been distribated from 
We bare not com- 
pared Mr, Lynch's plant with specimens in 
the m, but we may point out that our pre- 
sent plant 
figure in the Gartenfora, t. 1122, wherein the oven 
are described and figured as rose-coloured. 
COLONIAL NOTES. 
A TOWN GARDEN IN NEW ZEALAND. 
are 
de Lyon; bulbs from the Cape of Good 
т countries above the equator, as Freesias, Ixias, 
Ranuneuli, Scillas, Antholyzas, and Schizostyli#, 
пй the Trumpet Lily, Another plant 
California, were sent me by UF 
Franceschi, 
sat ава Татына — А 
andan 
P 
- кини | 
* Aedysarum multijugum, Мажітотісг, in Bull, Artt 
Petorsh., xxvii, (1881), 484. 
in wood 7 
Japanese Chrysanthemums, including Ftoile — 
Hope and E. 
which 
boat — 
— 
